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37Bodysuits,

Leotards, Maillots,and Swimwear

chapter

770

BODYSUIT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .771

Tank-Top Bodysuit Draft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .772

BODYSUIT WITH SLEEVES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .773

Bodysuit Draft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .773

Lycra Knit Sleeve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .773

TIGHTS WITH TOP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .774

Top and Bottom Patterns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .774

Tights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .774

TANK-TOP LEOTARD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .775

Leotard Draft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .775

LEOTARD WITH SLEEVE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .776

MAILLOT FOUNDATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .777

Maillot Draft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .777

Bikini Draft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .778

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BODYSUITS, LEOTARDS,MAILLOTS, AND SWIMWEAR 771

BODYSUITThe bodysuit is an activewear garment cut in a two-way stretch Lycra fabric for comfort and maximum bodymovement. (For more information about knits, see Chapter 27.) A seam allowance of 3/8 inch (overlock) isincluded in the draft.

The draft is based on the dartless pattern. Two bodysuit drafts are illustrated: the sleeveless (tank-top)bodysuit and the bodysuit with sleeves.The maximum stretch of the knit fabric runs through the length of the garment. The front and back body-

suit are drafted together and separated at the completion of the draft.

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772 Chapter 37

Notching Guide (Two Types

of Notching Used for Knits)1. Notch to a depth of 1/8 inch.2. Cut pyramid shapes out from the seam edge

1/8 inch wide and 1/8 inch high ().

Measurements Needed

(14) Waist arc front __________.

(7) Side length __________.

(15) Hip arc back __________.

(27) Crotch depth __________.

(18) Waist to ankle (pant length) __________.

(21) Knee plus 3/4 inch __________.

(17) Waist to knee __________.

(23) Ankle plus 3/4 inch __________.

Tank-Top Bodysuit DraftSeam allowance is included.

If milliskin knit is used, subtract 1 inch frommeasurements where asterisk [*] is marked.

Figure 1 Front Bodysuit Trace front pattern (broken lines).

Label neck A. Raise waist 1/2 inch. Label B.

AC one-third of AB.

*BD waist arc front (14) less 1/2 inch, squaredfrom B.

DE one-half of side length squared up from D(7). Draw the armhole and neckline, asillustrated.

*BF crotch depth (27) less 1/2 inch. Mark.

BG

one-half of BF. Mark.BH one-half of BD. Mark.

Square up and down through pattern from H.

HK pant length less 1 inch (18). Mark.

*GI hip arc less 1/2 inch (back) (15).

Squared from G.

FJ one-fourth of GI, plus 1/2 inch.

Line extended from F.

KM knee level plus 1/2 inch. Mark.

Legline: Square out one-fourth of knee and ankle

measurements from each side of center line.Draw legline from ankle to knee and from kneeblending to hipline. Draw crotch curve from J,blending with inseam.

Figure 2 Back Bodysuit

Cut pattern from paper.

Trace pattern, for back pattern.

The back strap slants toward the neckline.

Draw the back neckline.

Complete pattern for a test fit. See Chapter 29

for guide to correct the pattern for fit problems.Note: Modify the neckline and armhole to vary the design.

A

C

B New waist

G

JF

I

D

FRONT

Knee

Crotch

depth

less 1/2 "

E

H

Ankle

M

Hip

Crotch

K

1 3/4 "

1/2 "

BACK

Direction

ofgreatestst

retch

Figure 1

Stitching Guide

Overlock seams together, except for a 5-inch

opening at the center back for entry to test fit.

For elastic attachment instruction, see page 685.

Use this pattern for all designs cut in knit havingthe same stretch factor.

Figure 2

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BODYSUIT WITH SLEEVESThe armhole of the dartless pattern is modified for asleeve. Measurements needed:

Sleeve length (28) __________________.

Cap height (31) __________________.

Wrist (30) __________________.

Bodysuit DraftIf milliskin knit is used, subtract 1 inch from mea-surement where asterisk [*] is marked.

Figures 1,2

Trace the front pattern. Label the neck A. Raisethe waist 1/2 inch and label B.

AC one-third of AB. Mark.

*BD waist arc front (14) less 1/2 inch.

Squared from B.

DE side length is squared up from D, 1/2 inchpast armhole level, and squared out 1/2inch.

Draw the side seam with a slight inwardcurve.

Draw the armhole curve parallel to theoriginal armhole.

Draw the neckline as illustrated or mod-ify the shape as desired.

Armhole Measurement

Measure front armhole. Record for use in draftingthe sleeve __________________.

Continue with draft on page 772, Figure 1, startingwith BF instructions.

Lycra Knit SleeveThe sleeve draft is for use with Lycra stretch knitonly.

Figure 3

*AB

sleeve length (28) less 1/2 inch. Fold paper.AC The cap height less 1 inch. Square a line out

from C (biceps level).

BD one-half of BC (elbow level).

AE front armhole plus 1/8 inch.

Line touches biceps level.

Divide the line into thirds (dot mark).

Draw capline curve, using measurementsgiven.

BG one-half of wrist entry measurement (30)plus 3/4 inch. Connect G to E.

Draw underseam, as illustrated.

Cut pattern from paper and test fit withbodysuit or leotard.

Greatest stretch goes around the arm.

FRONT

D B

A

BACK

Measurearmhole

E

C

1/2 "

1/2 "1/2 "

Shift strap

Figure 1

1/4 "

1/2 "

1/2 "

Biceps C

D

BG

Elbow

A

E

F

Bodysuit/leotard sleeve

Paper

Figure 3

Figure 2

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774 Chapter 37

TIGHTS WITH TOPTo develop tights, the bodysuit pant is traced to abovewaistline (allow enough for snap-back from stretchingand for elastic casing (approximately 1 1/2 inches);

see Figure 3 example). Elastic should measure waist,less 1 1/2 inches, which allows for a 1/2-inchstitched overlap to secure. The bodysuit patterns canbe separated through the midriff area for designswith top and bottom patterns.

Top and Bottom PatternsFigure 1 Trace bodysuit front pattern.

Plot styleline, using illustration, design, size, and

height of model as a guide.

TightsFigure 2

Trace the bodysuit pattern and follow illustra-tion. In the fitting, add to back crotch extensionif necessary. For instructions to develop tightswith stirrups, see page 649.

Figure 3 Back: Example of raised back waistline. Follow

illustration.

Elastic Control

Elastic should measure the same as the pattern at thewaistlines less 3/4 inch. The measurement includes1 inch for overlap to stitch the elastic together. SeeChapter 29 for stitching and elastic instructions.

1 "

1 1/2 "

1/2 "(no elastic)

FRONTand

BACK

Figure 1

1 1/2 "

Front andback tights

Figure 2

BACK

1 3/4 "1 1/2 "

Figure 3

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TANK-TOP LEOTARDThe leotard is cut in a two-way Lycra stretch fabricfor comfort and maximum movement. (For informa-tion about knits, see Chapter 27.) Seam allowances of

3/8 inch are included in the draft.The leotard is based on the dartless pattern. Theleotard drafts illustrated are sleeveless and withsleeves.

The maximum stretch of the knit fabric runsthrough the length of the garment. The front andback leotard are drafted together and separated atthe completion on the draft.

Measurements Needed

(14) Waist arc front __________________.

(15) Hip arc back __________________.

(27) Crotch depth __________________.

(26) Crotch length __________________.

Leotard DraftIf milliskin is used, subtract 1 inch from measure-ment where asterisk [*] is marked.

Figure 1 Front Leotard

Trace front dartless pattern. Raise waist 1/2 inchand label AB.

AC one-third of AB.

*BD waist arc (14), less 1/2 inch, squared from B.

DE 2 inches, squared from D. Draw shoulderstrap and neckline, as illustrated.

*BF one-half of crotch length (26), less 3/4 inch.

BG one-half of BF, less 1 inch.

*GH hip arc (15), less 1/2 inch, squared from G.

FI 1 1/8 inches, squared from F. Square up fromI. Label J. Crossmark 2 inches up from I.

Label K.Draw a 1 1/2-inch line (or less) from J as aguide. Draw front legline from H to Ktouching angle line. Cut from paper.

Figure 2 Back Leotard

Trace the front leotard pattern.

Draw a line from L to M, 3/8 inch in from eachend of the legline.

Draw the back legline, as illustrated.

Shift the shoulder strap, as illustrated (secures

strap to shoulder).I

G

B Newwaist

C

A

H J

D

E

2 "

FRONT

F

1 3/4 "

A

BACK

3/8 "

3/16 "3/8 "

1/8 "

Shift strap

B

K

1 1/2 "

1 1/8 "

2 "

Figure 1 Figure 2

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776 Chapter 37

LEOTARD WITH SLEEVEIf milliskin is used, subtract 1 inch from measure-ment where asterisk [*] is marked.

Figures 1,2

Trace front pattern. Raise the waist 1/2 inch andlabel AB.

AC one-third of AB. Mark.

*BD waist arc (14) front, less 1/2 inch,squared from B.

DE side length is squared up from D, 1/2inch past armhole level, and squared out1/2 inch.

Draw the side seam with a slight inwardcurve.

Draw the armhole curve parallel to theoriginal armhole.

Draw the neckline as illustrated, or mod-ify the shape as desired.

Armhole

Measure armhole and record for use in develop-ing the sleeve __________________ . See page 773 forsleeve draft (long, or to preferred length).

Continue with draft on page 775, Figure 1, start-ing with BF instructions.

Figures 4, 5The completed patterns are illustrated.

Measurearmhole

A

C

E

D B

1/2 "

1/2 "1/2 "

FRONT BACK

Figure 1 Figure 2

Leotard sleeve

Figure 3

BACK

LEOTARD

FRONT

LEOTARD

Waist Waist

Direction

ofgreateststretch

Figure 4 Figure5

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MAILLOT FOUNDATIONThe maillot swimsuit is based on the leotard patternwith basic armhole (see page 776). Seam allowancesof 3/8 inch are included in the draft. The maximum

stretch goes around the figure. The maillot founda-tion pattern is the base for the development of thebikini and bra tops.

Maillot DraftFigures 1,2

Trace the front and back leotard. Modify the pat-tern as illustrated. Two leglines are shown fordesign variations.

Extend the center line if a higher neckline isdesired. (See pages 685686 for stitching andelastic guidance.)

The waistline is marked using the symbol ratherthan the notch.

Cut and test fit.

For guidance to pattern adjustments, seeChapter 29.

FRONT

BACK

Direction of greatest stretch

1/2 "1/2 "

Figure 1 Figure 2

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778 Chapter 37

Bikini DraftFigures 1a,b,c Trace front and back maillot patterns and plot

bikini, bra top, and crotch lining using illustra-tion as a guide (a, b, c).

Allow an addition of 3/4 inch above the bikiniline for the snap-back from stretching and forelastic attachment. For legline variation, see Fig-ure 4. Direction lines are horizontal for maxi-mum stretch.

Figures 2d,e

Cut front and back bra from paper, after adding3/8 inch for attaching elastic.

Figure 3 Bow

Tie. Draw tie on fold 1-3/4 6 (or longer). Tack

center of tie and to bra underneath.

Figure 4 Center fold bikini

Place front and back bikini on fold. If preferred,adjust legline and trace. Add 3/8 seams for elas-tic. Cut and test fit.*

Figure 5 All-in-One bikini

Place front bikini on fold and trace. Place back

bikini on fold matching stitch lines at crotchlevels. Trace. Cut and test fit. See pages 685and 686, Chapter 30, for elastic and stitchingguide.

FRONTBIKINI

BACKBIKINI

1 to 2 "

Bra front

Draw crotchpiece

Fold

Fo

ldFold

Fig.C

Figure 1a

A

B

Bra front

Paper

Fo

ld

Figure 2d

Back bra

Fo

ld

Figure 2e

1-3/4 "

Fold

1/4 " seam included

1-1/4 "

Figure 3

For higherlegline

Cut onfold

Cut onfold

Figure 4

BACK

All-in-one

FRONT

Overlapcrotchseams

Figure5

Figure 1b

Figure 1c

037 capitulo 37

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