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Crónica de Ciudad Perdida

Por: Antonia Restrepo

Hace exactamente un año, tuve la oportunidad de subir a Ciudad Perdida, uno de los

250 poblados antiguos de los cuatro grupos indígenas encontrados en la cara norte y

suroeste de la Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta en el departamento de Magdalena, al norte de

Colombia. Este increíble lugar es un complejo sistema de construcciones, caminos

empedrados, escaleras y muros intercomunicados por una serie de terrazas y plataformas en

las cuales están construidos los centros ceremoniales, viviendas, almacenamientos de

víveres y más.

Para llegar a Ciudad perdida, se atraviesan bosques llenos de exótica fauna y flora,

puentes colgantes, montañas y cascadas. Después de todos eso, se encuentran las ruinas del

imperio Tayrona, que se caracteriza por una mezcla entre a naturaleza y la civilización.

La subida a Ciudad Perdida, consto de tres días caminando hasta llegar y luego dos días y

medio devolviéndonos. El primer día, para mí, fue el más duro de todos ya que la caminata

era toda en subida con “morral al hombro.”

Esta caminata duró aproximadamente 5 o 6 horas y llegamos al campamento

exhaustos. Durante la subida tuve la oportunidad de ver unos paisajes muy hermosos,

además de diferentes animales y plantas de a región. Allí, nos bañamos, comimos y nos

dormimos ya que el siguiente día la caminata iba a empezar temprano.

El día dos fue más relajado en términos de cansancio, el camino era más plano y

tuvimos la oportunidad de parar en un río a refrescarnos. Un recuerdo que me queda de la

caminata fue que junto a mis amigas, para distraernos y no “caer en cuenta” de cuánto

tiempo quedaba, cantábamos todas las canciones que nos sabíamos.

El segundo día llegamos al campamento siguiente en las horas de la tarde y no

cabíamos todos. Los guías decidieron que los hombres iban a dormir en un campamento a

unos 20 minutos caminando del nuestro. Cuando iban a salir, empezó a llover muy duro

entonces nos dijeron que nos iba a tocar dormir a todos en ese mismo campamento. Todas

las niñas tuvieron que dormir de a dos o en unos casos tres por cama para que cupiéramos

todos. Finalmente logramos organizarnos, bajamos al río a estar un rato, nos bañamos,

comimos y nos dormimos temprano.

El tercer día fue agotador pero al mismo tiempo emocionante porque sabíamos que

nos estábamos acercando cada vez más. Esta vez la caminata también fue dura, porque

tenía bastantes obstáculos como caminos angostos, piedras atravesadas y diferentes

animales. A pesar de esos obstáculos, logramos llegar al tercer campamento. Apenas

llegamos, nos dijeron a las niñas que nos tocaba dormir en hamacas y los niños en camas,

ya que el día anterior habíamos nosotras habíamos dormido en camas. Ninguna estaba muy

entusiasmada con esta noticia pero igual lo hicimos. Esa noche, nos hicieron unas

actividades para prepararnos para subir. Nos enseñaron muchas cosas que no sabíamos de

Ciudad Perdida; su cultura, sus habitantes, sus religiones y también hicimos unos juegos

basados en el tema. Después de esto, comimos y nos dormimos.

El cuarto día ya íbamos a subir y todos estábamos muy emocionados. Nos

despertaron muy temprano y nos anunciaron que íbamos a subir a la ciudad pero que ese

mismo día nos íbamos a empezar a devolver para no perder tiempo. Cuando nos dijeron

esto, fuimos a empacar y a dejar todo listo para caminar. Después desayunamos, nos

alistamos y salimos hacia las escaleras que suben por el río Buritaca hasta Ciudad Perdida.

Empezamos a caminar, cruzamos un rio todos cogidos de las manos para no caernos

y encontramos los escalones. Estos escalones son bastante difíciles de subir ya que son muy

altos pero para nada anchos. Hay que tener mucho cuidado porque es muy fácil caerse. Más

o menos en la mitad de la subida, llegamos a unas terrazas y pensamos que ya íbamos a

llegar pero no era cierto, solo nos reunieron para explicarnos lo importante que era esa

ciudad para sus habitantes y nos pidieron mucho respeto. Después de eso, seguimos

subiendo hasta que por fin llegamos.

Cuando uno está allá arriba se mezclan los sentimientos, es una ciudad llena de

diferentes energías. Es simplemente impresionante. Esa ciudad te deja sin palabras, es de

las cosas más lindas que he visto en mi vida. Una vez arriba tuvimos un ritual interesante ya

que una de mis amigas cumplía años entonces se lo celebramos arriba. Le llevamos bombas

y los habitantes de la ciudad le dieron un collar representativo de su religión. También,

tuvimos una charla como grupo muy emotiva, todos estábamos muy emocionados. Después

de un largo rato arriba, bajamos ya que ese mismo día íbamos a empezar nuestro camino de

vuelta. Llegamos al campamento, almorzamos e inmediatamente salimos para no perder

tiempo.

En el camino de vuelta, nos encontramos con algo aterrador. Yo iba en el grupo de

atrás porque el penúltimo día sufrí un esguince en el pie. Todos ya habían llegado al sitio de

descanso excepto nosotros y de la nada empezamos a oír unos gritos. Nos estaban avisando

que venía un toro corriendo hacia nosotros entonces que nos quitáramos del camino. No

sabíamos que hacer porque de un lado del camino había una montaña y del otro un

precipicio. Al final logramos quitarnos y el toro siguió derecho corriendo pero nosotras

quedamos muy asustadas. A pesar de todo lo que nos pasó, todos los obstáculos, el

cansancio y las dificultades del camino, todo valió la pena porque llegar a Ciudad Perdida

es algo impresionante, único e inigualable. No me arrepiento de haber ido en ningún

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