issn (online) 2348 – 7968 | impact factor (2020) – 6.72...

IJISET - International Journal of Innovative Science, Engineering & Technology, Vol. 7 Issue 12, December 2020

ISSN (Online) 2348 – 7968 | Impact Factor (2020) – 6.72

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Stimulus on 3D-CAD Software enactment in Fashion and Apparel Industry.

Mr. Ashraful Islam1, Rajib Das2, Mithila Kabir Tarafder3, Nazmun Nahar4, Solaiman Kabir Mamun5

1 Lecturer. Fashion Design and Technology, Port City International University, South Khulsi, Chittagong, Bangladesh. 2 & 5 Lecturer. Apparel Manufacturing Management and Technology, Shanto-Mariam University of Creative Technology,

Uttara, Dhaka 1230, Bangladesh. 3 & 4 Lecturer. Fashion Design and Technology, Shanto-Mariam University of Creative Technology, Uttara, Dhaka 1230,

Bangladesh.

Abstract

Fashion and apparel industry has been changing rapidly especially in the mass production methods. 3D CAD software has taken this role independently. We are very happy to announce that this technology has been integrated into our education curriculum. we think 3D is extremely exciting and perceive that designers will be thrilled while they learn it. They can truly depend on their creativity when they use 3D and see their product immediately. Designers would work very much faster on the computer than ever could do it by hand allowing method. The future of the education industry largely depends on the transformation of industrial technology for instance, 3D and so on. We can take an idea and we can turn it into something real in 3D that holds in our hands. Designers really feel that they were able to really convey their vision because they have a lot of creative freedom, they were able to go and completely new direction that they never done before. From haute couture to the mass market, every sector of the fashion industry has felt the impact of CAD. As such, knowledge of CAD has become increasingly important to help secure a job in fashion design. Not only it saves time and reduce errors, but it also cuts costs down by permitting designers to view virtual versions of finished products without needing to purchase materials. So it’s time to adopt and implement the 3D CAD software in the Fashion Industry, Keywords – Gerber, Optitex, 3D-Stimulation, Draping, Advantages of 3D CAD, 3D-Design, Auto Markernesting,3D patterned. prototype sampling. Virtual Mannequin.

INTRODUCTION

Technological applications like software have completely mechanized the face of the fashion and textile industry. It has made a lot of tasks easy and fast. Fashion professionals do not need to put in hours of labor. They only need to have an idea and appropriate software applications will do the work on their behalf. The need for human beings has reduced considerably owing to these applications in the industry. Right from the purchase of raw materials to the sale of finished goods, everything can be documented by software programs. All the expenses incurred in the production process, the use of raw materials at any specific stage of production, or the details relating to the sale of finished clothes, everything can be systematically documented. Designers can avail help in the cutting and stitching of clothes, style and pattern determination, etc. The latest technology in use in the fashion industry in modern times is the 3D technology. It lets designers to view a garment and whether it looks good on an individual or not, even before the garment is prepared. A software application using 3D technology can perform almost all the functions related to this exercise,3D technology helps in the graphical representation of geometric data. Unlike 2D, it makes use of length, breadth, and height, as well which makes the image look more real. Designers can design the outfit in the 3D software and during the entire process of designing, they can check if the design is perfect on 3D mannequins. Today, plethora’s of fashion software manufacturing companies integrate 3D

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technology to their applications. Toray, OptiTex, X-box, [TC]2, Lectra, YXendis, etc. are the widely recognized names in this industry. They manufacture exclusive 3D software applications for the textile and apparel industry. They are the companies to rely upon when in need. If compared to the other industries, fashion and garment industry remained largely manual as till now. The techniques used in the production of garments and fabrics were largely the same as used almost 150 years ago. But software applications are easily accepted in any company. 3D body scanners are especially in a lot of demand in the modern apparel manufacturing companies.

I.HISTORY OF CAD SOFTWARE IN FASHION AND APPAREL INDUSTRY:

At the beginning of modern fashion industry in the 19th century, with Charles Frederick Worth who in 1858 designed his first label sewn in a garment that he created, the means by which the designer created their designs had been with pencil and a paper. But with the change in society and culture, the main challenge faced to this process was the increasing demand for design variation, frequent change in styles and customer taste in the market. This became the reason for alternate solutions which would be like an aid to the design and manufacture process.

The application for CAD came when computer designing had come to a level where it could be incorporated in the apparel industry. With CAD there came a revolution in designing industry wherein a week’s work could be done within a day. Now CAD programs have become an essential tool for fashion designers, garment manufacturers and export houses etc. with functions such as pattern making, virtual test fitting, pattern grading, marker making etc. Garment makers have been able to reduce production time many folds by using a CAD system.

II.SOME OF THE POPULAR CAD SOFTWARE: There are many CAD software solution providers for the garment and textile industry. Here is a list of such popular CAD systems.

AccuMark Pattern Design Software by Gerber Technology CAD.Assyst by Human Solution Assyst AVM Modrais by Lectra Systems Optitex Pattern Design software by Optitex TUKAcad by Tukateck Inc. Fashion Cad by Cad Cam Solutions Australia Pty. Ltd SDS-ONE APEX3 from Shima Seiki PAD System GT CAD by Genuine Technology and Research Limited.

III.BENEFITS OF 3D-CAD IN FASHION INSUDTRY:

1. Using CAD software, a fashion designer can create new sketches, patterns, prints more quickly and precisely. With the increasing use of CAD, fashion designers can create multiple variations of a single design and style and adapt it to varying material and pattern.

2. CAD also allows the fashion designer to explore various color-ways of a print developed as opposed to the traditional design methods the alterations and rectifications are quick as well as more accurate, as it reduces rooms for errors.

3. As the whole process from print development, collection development can be done on virtual version and very less part of the whole process is an actual physical raw material the cost of collection development in fashion designing can be reduced to a minimum.

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IV.SOME FEATURES OF DISTINGUISH A 3D CAD:

REAL TO LIFE 3D FASHION PROTOTYPING:

Or the ability to create or modify patterns and translate them into a realistic 3D prototype that shows endless variations from the physical properties of the fabric to the visualization of the material, stitching, pockets, layers, padding, folds, rigid 3D accessories and finishes.

PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF THE FABRICS:

The ability to visualize the way in which any fabric folds and falls on a real human body with an incredible 3D fabric draping technology. You can measure the exact physical properties of any fabric using a proprietary digital sensor that connects directly to the V Stitcher.

AVATAR IN MOTION:

To simulate the pressure and the tension of the garment you have an infinite number of avatars from any source to improve realism and precision. You can also view moving patterns and capture complex poses with smoother transitions.

INTEGRATION WITH ADOBE ILLUSTRATOR:

Work simultaneously with image, vector, and pattern design software in a variety of 2D and 3D file formats, through a continuous runtime integration that constantly updates both files.

ANALYSIS OF THE AUTOMATIC TEXTILE PROPERTIES:

The Fabric Analyzer can analyze any fabric for any visualization application including footwear and bags. Fabric Analyzer allows you to determine the thickness, stretching and folding properties of the fabric and to automatically load the values in V stitcher or other similar 3D software programs.

DESIGN ON DIFFERENT SIZES:

Have you already got used to the Design in Sizes tool? This is one of the tools developed specifically for all clothing designers who struggled to keep costs down while perfecting the scale and positioning of the graphics in all sizes. The tool allows you to position the graphics on the 3D virtual garment, then resize and adjust the size and position on multiple dimensions in a set. Design in Sizes is the 3D fashion tool that gives complete control over how your graphics are displayed on garments of all sizes.

TECH PACK:

Instantly generate detailed specifications ready for the PLM software to produce the 3D leader. Each downstream team member receives exactly the information he needs, including materials, finishes, workmanship, pattern prints and more.

V.BASIC 3D CONCEPTS

OptiTex 3D is a natural extension to PDS (Pattern Design System). Creating 3D content begins with a full set of real patterns. These can be acquired from external CAD applications or directly from our PDS. In this tutorial we will assume these patterns are available in OptiTex PDS format (.pds/.dsn) and proceed from there. Creating 3D cloth from 2D flat patterns requires additional information which consists of:

1. Specification of Style or design sheet (details of design, stitch details, fabric or logo placement)

2. Fabric Information (Stretch, Rigidity…)

3. Colors, Prints, Logo’s, Stitch widths & textures (Shading)

4. Model measurements and sample size of style

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Workflow

Using the Body Dimension (Morph) dialog:

This dialog gives you the freedom to interactively modify body measurements, by either input of an exact measure, or by using a slider to offset the current measure.

Note that the dialog consists of several panels, some of the OptiTex mannequins have more options than others.

1. Use the Main panel to modify basic measurements, used to specify body size and shape. VERY IMPORTANT, always enter in Size (Under bust) first, as this will make her/his whole body bigger or smaller in proportion. Use the other tools for body shape and posture, and to change the weight balance. After the Basic morphs have been entered, proceed to the other categories to enter on the remaining measures. You may go back and adjust the shape/measure several times until you have achieved the perfect model.

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2. Use Lengths to enter in all length measurements (Center Front to Waist and Center Back to Waist are in the Basics Category and should be entered in LAST)

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3. Use Circumferences to enter in all the circumference measurements.

Arranging For 3D

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Defining Initial Placement

1. The pieces of a style must be orientated correctly in 2D to show up in 3D in the right position. Most pieces should "stand up" or be vertical on the screen except sleeves, which are horizontal on the screen. Select the Front and Back and Press "]" to rotate them clockwise. or Select Toolbox/Rotation/RotateCW.

2. Click on the Properties tab. Click on each piece to make sure that they are all a Pair. In the piece Property window, check Pair. (Left and Right)

3. Open the 3D Properties tab. Select View/3D/3D Properties. This is the window in which we determine the 3D positioning, cloth properties and the size of style. Select each piece and choose the 3D location, under Positioning>Location> select FRONT, BACK, AND LEFT ARM, for Front Back and Sleeve, one at a time.

4. Select all Pieces, and click on Synchronize (this save these positions for 3D)

Edit Mode

Edit mode is available by holding down the Ctrl/Shift keys. When editing, pieces can be relocated, rotated and prints or textures can be modified.

To move a specific piece, hold Ctrl/Shift down and then left click the piece. It should show a green rectangle indicating its selection.

Ctrl+Left click: Moving the mouse left, right up and down moves the piece accordingly.

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Make sure the pieces are located correctly by inspecting the mannequin from multiple angles. See result in pictures below:

How to Stitch

Pattern connection is done in the PDS 2D window, on the Working Area.

Remove the cloth from the mannequin by selecting the 'Clear Cloth' tool. The 3D placement will not be lost until next time you will choose to Synchronize.

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Select the 'Stitch' tool from the 3D toolbar to begin stitching the patterns. There are 3 ways to add a stitch: 1. Segment to Segment - Click on a line to be stitched, this will stitch up to the grade points. Notice how a color highlights the selected segment and the icon adds a little "2" next the cursor indicating that the next segment clicked will connect to this one.

Stitch Verification

After stitching all necessary segments, we are ready to verify the connections and run the simulation.

1. Position the cloth again by clicking the “Place Cloth”. Now you can see the actual stitching connections in 3D. Standalone stitches are not visible at this point.

2. At this point you have either finished stitching correctly, or maybe you are missing some stitches, or some stitches might be reversed.

In case you've missed stitches go back to 2D working area and complete the stitching necessary. In case you've recognized reversed stitches, select those stitches using the 'Show Stitch Mode' tool.

Then check the 'Flipped' checkbox in the 3D Properties pane, on the

1. Relocate and verify stitches. Verify that all stitches are present and correctly positioned. You can do that by hiding the model. This

would enable you to view the stitch connections from various angles. Showing and hiding the model is done by selecting 'Show or Hide Model' from the 3D toolbar.

In the image below you can see an example of hidden model state. An important thing is to ensure that the stitch connections actually circumscribe the body. That means that you need to keep the pieces as close to the body as possible and ensure that there are no significant body parts not included within the stitch connections boundaries.

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3D Simulation

To run the simulation, click the “Simulate Draping” button.

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VI.CONCLUSION:

The person intending to wear a particular garment can actually see their virtual twin trying on the planned garment. It is wrapped around the body of the model and the required changes are made to the garment on the spot. The so-made garment is then sent to be actually prepared. It will fit the subject exactly and also suit them as it is made after keeping all the points in mind. As every coin has two sides to it, so does 3D software programs. This is a comparatively new technology and less in use. It is expensive and one may have troubles trying to find professionals who are able to operate it. It has not yet fully evolved to accomplish tasks that it is capable of. A considerable chunk of population in many countries is still unaware of the existence of this technology. But overall, it can be said that the demand for 3D software is increasing in apparel manufacture. Its use is mainly to create virtual images, at present. CAD software makes the most use of this technology. It has helped in reducing the number of mistakes and errors done in the entire process of manufacturing in the fashion industry. No wonder, its demand is increasing in the market.

REFERENCES

[1] Kang, T.J. and Kim, S. M., 2000c. Optimized garment pattern generation based on threedimensional anthropometric measurement, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 12 (4), 240-254.

[2] Kim, S.M. and Kang, T. J., 2002. Garment pattern generation from body scan, ComputerAided Design, 35, 611-618

[3] Kim, S. and Park, C. K., 2007. Basic garment pattern generation using geometric modelling method, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology,

[4] Optitex, http://www.optitex.com/en/products/3DRunway_Tools (Accessed 27 August 2009)

[5] Petrak, S. and Rogale, D., 2006. Systematic representation and application of a 3D computer-aided garment construction method, Part I: 3D garment basic cut construction on avirtual body model, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 18 (3), 179-187.

[6] https://help.optitex.com/

[7] weiblicher Personen zur dreidimensionalen Konstruktion von körpernaher Bekleidung und Miederwaren, Masterarbeit Nr. 1275. Thesis (MSc.), Technische Universitaet Dresden (TU Dresden), Germany

[8] PAD System, http://www.padsystem.co.nz/3D_simulation.php (Accessed 27 August 2009)

[9] Petrak, S.; Rogale, D. and Mandekic´-Botteri, V., 2006. Systematic representation and application of a 3D computer-aided garment construction method Part II: spatial transformation of 3D garment cut segments, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 18 (3), 188-199.

[10] Rasdomakhin, N., 1995. Three dimensional clothing design, Internal report, St PetersburgUniversity of Technology and Design. (cited in Hardaker and Fozzard, 1998).

[11] Sayem, A.S.M., 2004. Beitrag zur Entwicklung parametrischer virtueller Formkörper

[12] Reyes Infografica, http://www.virtual-fashion.com (Accessed 27 August 2009)

AUTHOR'S PROFILE

First Author: Mr. Ashraful Islam completed his B.A Honors in the ‘Fashion Design and Technology’ in 2013 and Masters in the ‘Masters of Arts and Fashion Design’ in 2015 from Shanto-Mariom University of Creative Technology, Dhaka, Bangladesh. He worked as a Designer at the Hure Fashion House, Dhaka from February to September, 2013. After that, he worked as a faculty at the Dhaka Institute of Fashion and Technology, Dhaka from March, 2015 to May, 2017. Since June, 2017, now currently he has been working as a Lecturer at the Port City International University, Chittagong and also act as a Chairman of this department. As goal he aims to develop his career in the field of Pattern Making of fashion design.

Second Author: Rajib Das completed his Masters on Industrial Relation and Labor Studies year of 2016 from Institute of Social welfare and Research, University of Dhaka, Bangladesh. He has accomplished his MBA Degree with the specialization on Apparel Merchandising from the BGMEA University of Fashion and Technology in the Year of 2014 with outstanding triumph. He started his under graduation in Apparel Manufacturing Management and Technology at Shanto-Mariam University of Creative Technology and received his B.A (Hon’s) Degree in the Year of 2011 with Cum laude Award. Although Rajib Das had a doable opportunity to set his career in dissimilar conglomerate but still he has clearly resolute his mind to be an Educator and serve the pioneers accordingly. As its

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significance, very firstly he joined at Kassim Textile (BD Office) in 2011 as a Marketing Executive (Fabric). After that he worked in Al Muslim group as a Sourcing Co coordinator during the Year of 2013-2014. At the Beginning of 2015 He joined as a Sr. Merchandiser at Sky Apparels and performed until 1st May 2015 with expected audacity and so on. The matter of righteousness, Rajib Das recently functioning as a Full Time Faculty Member at Shanto-Mariam University of Creative Technology which is valued as “The First Design University in this Region”. He also engaged as an Adjunct Faculty in some of the notable Fashion Institute like College of Fashion and Technology and so on and also involved with compliance Development project under Accord Bangladesh as a research analysis. He has already internationally published a number of Journals/Manuscripts from several countries and in globally recognized Editions. Since 2012 to till now He has been Operating a garments merchandising related blog. His area of interest is Tools and Techniques of Merchandising, Computer Aided Design and Manufacturing, Social Compliance, Fashion and Apparel Marketing, Apparel Production Planning and Control. He participated in a number of professional Trainings and Workshops and frequently participates as a Trainer to contribute the business phenomenon. He engaged with several types of social and cultural activities. He attained some Conferences, Trainings and Workshops in, Thailand and India.

Third Author: Mithila Kabir completed her MBA in Product and Fashion Merchandising and also accomplished of her B.A. (Honors) in Fashion Design and Technology from Shanto-Mariam University of Creative Technology, Bangladesh. She is also completed her Higher National Diploma in Fashion and Clothing from Bangladesh Institute of Art and Design .She is functioning as a Lecturer, Department of Fashion Design and Technology at Shanto-Mariam University of Creative Technology, Bangladesh and engaged with BTEC Fashion and Clothing Programme for last Five years. Her area of interest is Pattern Construction and Development, Garment production, Printed Textile and Design. Production Technique. And also she is involved as an entrepreneur and freelancer Designer. Fouth Author: Nazmun Nahar completed her MA Fashion Design and Technology also accomplished of her B.A. (Honors) in Fashion Design and Technology from Shanto-Mariam University of Creative Technology, Bangladesh. She is also completed her Higher National Diploma in Fashion and Clothing from Bangladesh Institute of Art and Design. She is functioning as a Lecturer, Department of Fashion Design and Technology at Shanto-Mariam University of Creative Technology, Bangladesh and engaged with as a Coordinator BTEC Fashion and Clothing Programme for last Five years. Her area of interest is Pattern Development, Computer Aided and Design, Fashion Application, Pattern cutting and design, Communication through art & design. She engaged with several types of social and cultural activities.

Fifth Author: Md. Solaiman Kabir Mamun was born in Tangail district, Gopalpur Thana, in 1989. He had completed his S.S.C from Madhupur Shahid Smrity High School, and H.S.C from Madhupur Degree Collage and also completed his under graduate and higher graduate from Shanto Mariam University of Creative Technology. When he was studied his under graduate (2011) 3rd year on that time he has done his internee ship from interstoff apparel ltd . For his good activities they offered to join their company. Then he joined that company. After that he join Chittagong CEPZ, JMS apparel ltd. In 2014 he concomitant ABA group besides he also joined Uttara University as a permanent part time faculty. In 2015 he joined as full time Junior Lecturer at Shanto-Mariam University of Creative Technology under the Department of Apparel Manufacturing Management and Technology.

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