vehículos pesados para hacer en madera

8/10/2019 Vehculos Pesados para hacer en madera

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Vehculos de la onstruccin

Maquinaria Pesada

Varios modelos para hacer en madera


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WOOD magazine September 2056

Overall dimensions: 838" wide 1314" long 7116" high

Blade width: 734"Ground clearance: 14"Track gauge: 412"Power transmission: ManualFueled by imagination

PROJECT HIGHLIGHTS

Construction-Grade

BulldozerClear the way t

every kids dreamof operating heav

machinery

For simply pushing blocks around aplayroom, or gathering compli-ments about your woodworking,

this dozer gets the job done. As it lum-bers across the job site, its operator canlift and lower the blade just like on thereal thing. This third project in ourConstruction-Grade series works right

alongside the excavator (issue 194,November 2009) and the crane (issue185, September 2008) [photo,page 61].

Build the undercarriage

1From 112"-thick walnut (or laminated

34" walnut), cut a 317" blank. Fromthis blank, cut the chassis (A) to size

[Materials List], and set the rest aside. Othe chassis, lay out the 1132" holes athe chamfers [Drawing 1a]. Drill tholes at the drill press. Bandsaw juoutside the chamfer lines, then sand the lines.

2Make a copy of the Radiator Pattefrom the WOOD Patterns inse


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CLAMPING TO A CHAMFERED END THE UNDERCARRIAGE TAKES SHAPE

220 grit, then glue a blade-arm mount(C) to each wheel spacer with their endsand back faces flush [Drawing 2]. Afterthe glue dries, glue these assemblies(C/D) to the chassis (A) centered on itslength [Drawing 1a].

5From34" walnut, cut two sides (E).

Make a copy of the Side Pattern,spray-adhere it to a blank, then drill thehole and bandsaw and sand the sides to

shape. Separate the sides, sand them to220 grit, then glue and clamp the sidesto the chassis assembly (AD) [Photo B].

Add the body

1Cut two3433" maple blanks and a

1433" walnut blank. Laminate thewalnut between the maple pieces withthe edges flush. After the glue dries,make a copy of the Hood Pattern, and

A

Clamp the chassis (A) to your bench to prevent it from tipping. Clampthe radiator (B) to the chassis.

1" axle peg

A

" chamfers

8"

3"

2" tandem wheel

" hole 1" deep

2" axle peg

1" single wheel

2"

" washer

" washer

C

D

"

"

D

"

1" 1""

"

" holes

4"

" radius

B

Glue the sides (E) against the back face of the radiator (B) and flush tthe outside edges of the chassis (A).

spray-adhere it to the blank. Bandsa

and sand the hood to shape, and drthe hole for the smokestack [Drawing Sand the hood to 220 grit, then rout116" chamfer on the top front and twvertical edges. Glue the hood to the tof the sides (E) tight to the radiator (B

2Bandsaw and sand the cab riser (Gback (H), and cab platform (I) shape [Drawing 1]. The back should snugly between the sides (E). For the c(J), retrieve the cutoff blank from earland spray-adhere a copy of the Cab Pternto it. Bandsaw and sand the cab shape. Then drill the hole where show

and chamfer both faces.

3Cut a 345122" blank for the csides (K). Rout a 38" chamfer on ea

end, then crosscut the cab sides to widtBandsaw and sand the roof (L) to shapand chamfer its bottom edges [Drawi1]. Cut a 38784" blank for the roll ba(M) and rout 116" chamfers along boedges of one face. From this blank, cthe roll bars to fit between the cab sidand the top of the cab. Sand the csides, roof, and roll bars to 220 grit.

4Quick Tip!Five-minute clamtime.As you glue parts G throu

M in place, clamp parts for just five miutes. The glue develops enough grathat the part wont move as you work othe next piece. Glue and clamp the criser (G) to the sides (E), tight to the reof the hood (F) [Drawing 1]. Next, glthe back (H) between the sides anagainst the cab riser. Glue and clamp tcab platform (I) to the riser, centered its width and snug against the hooGlue the cab (J) to the platform, centeron its width and against the hood. Th

CHASSIS ASSEMBLY2

WHEEL SPACER SIDE VIEW2a

A

Frontedgesflush

BB

E

E

A

C

D


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woodmagazine com

glue and clamp the cab sides (K) to the

cab platform [Photo C]. Align their endswith the chamfers on the cab [Drawing4]. Glue the roll bars (M) to the cab, cen-tered on the cab sides length, then addthe roof (L) centered on the cabs top.

Get on track

1Cut a1211213" walnut blank. Make

two copies of the Top Track Patternand Back Track Patternand spray-adherethem along one edge of the blank. Band-saw and sand the tracks (N, O) to shapeand sand them to 220 grit.

2Temporarily install the dual wheels

and axle pegs [Source] on one side ofthe undercarriage/body (AM). Use thewheels as reference points to positionand glue the tracks in place [Photo D].Let the glue dry for 30 minutes, thenrepeat the process for the opposite side.

Switch to the blade

1Cut the blade back (P) to size and setit aside. Cut blanks for the blade top(Q) and blade ends (R) [Drawing 3]. Spray-adhere the patterns to the blade endsand blade top, then stack-cut and sandthe blade ends to shape. Note:Do not cutthe chamfers on the ends of the blade topyet. Drill the holes in the blade top andblade ends where indicated. On theblade top, rout 116" chamfers on both topedges, the bottom front edge, and aroundthe holes. Remove the patterns from thepieces and sand them to 220 grit.

2Bevel-rip the edge of a34"-thick blank

for the blade bottom (S), then rip thepiece to finished width [Drawing 3a].Rout a 116" chamfer on the rear edge andsand the blade bottom to 220 grit.

CONNECT THE CAB PARTS

C

Glue the cab sides (K) to the cab platform (I)only, not to the cab (J). Spring clamps fit thetight space.

3Apply glue to the top and bottomedges of the blade back (P) and clampthe top (Q) and bottom (S) to it withtheir rear faces flush. After the glue dries,glue the blade ends (R) to this assembly[Photo E]. Let the glue dry, then bandsawthe ends of the assembly [Photo F].

4Plane a 413" maple blank to12"

thick. Rip two 78"-wide strips from itfor the blade arms (T) and brackets (U).

TRACKING TRUE

D

Bridge two wheels with a straightedge toposition the upper face of the tracks (N, O).Hold them in place for a couple of minutes.

Crosscut a bracket from each strip, rip the remaining strips to 34" widthe arms. Plane the original blank tand rip two 58"-wide blanks for the(V) and braces (W). Plane the blan14" and cut blanks from it for the bpivots (X). Make a copy of the patfor parts TX and spray-adhere themthe appropriate blanks. Cut and the parts to shape, drill holes w

7"

" hole

" hole

" chamfer

U

R

"

"

"

P

2"

Q

" hole

S

R

"

"

" chamfers

Cut chamfers after assembly.

U

"

S

" chamfer

1"

45

"

BLADE3

BLADE BOTTOMEND VIEW

3a

J

K

F

E

I

GN

O

GLUE ON THE SIDES

E

Clamp the blade assembly (P/Q/S) to youbench, then glue and clamp the blade en(R) to it, flush at the back.

P

R

R

S

Q
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indicated, then sand the parts to 220grit. Rout 116" chamfers on the arm andlift where indicated on the patterns.

5Hacksaw lengths of threaded rod forthe blade assembly [Drawing 4;ShopTip, above right]. Join each blade pivot (X)to a lift (V) with a 118"-long section ofthreaded rod and two acorn nuts, mak-ing a mirrored pair of assemblies. Fastenthese assemblies to the radiator (B)[Photo G].

6Join each blade brace (W) to a bracket(U) with a 114" length of threaded

A SPACER LEVELS THE BLADE

F

Level the blade assembly (PS) with a scrapspacer before bandsawing the chamfer oneach end. Sand the chamfers smooth.

rod and acorn nuts, again making mir-rored assemblies. Use 118" axle pegs totemporarily fasten the arms (T) to theblade-arm mounts (C) [Drawing 4]. Slidea rubber band up each arm [Photo H]before fastening the blade (PS) to thearm with a threaded rod and acorn nuts.Put a dab of glue on each brace andbracket and glue them in place with thebracket just below the hole in the bladetop (Q) [Photo H]. Allow the glue to dry.

7Remove the blade parts (PX) fromthe body (AO) and discard the rub-

ber bands. Attach the pivot and lassembly (X/V) to the blade assemb

using a 758" length of threaded rod, fonuts [Photo I], and two acorn nuts. Retach the arms (T) to the blade-armounts (C) and test the fit and opetion of the blade.

Finish it up

1Remove the blade assembly (Pand disassemble the parts joinwith threaded rod. Remove the duwheels. Tape off the stems of the axpegs and the bottom 516" of the smokstack, then apply a finish to all piec(We sprayed on three coats of polyuthane, sanding lightly between coawith 320-grit sandpaper.)

2After the finish dries, remove ttape from the smokestack and axpegs and glue the smokestack into thood (F). Place an axle peg through eawheel and a washer [Drawings 1, 2]. Glthe pegs to the wheel spacers (D), chas(A), and sides (E).

3Reassemble the blade assembly usiblue thread lock on the acorn nuInsert axle pegs through the arms (

Go nuts for clean threadsCutting threaded rod with a hacksawleaves burrs that prevent nuts fromthreading on. To restore damagedthreads, position a nut on each side othe blade before making the cut.Removing the nuts cleans up the burr

SHOP TIP

FASTEN THE PIVOTS IN PLACE

G

Feed a 414"-long threaded rod through ablade pivot (X), then through the radiator (B).Then place the opposite pivot on the rod.

J

T

U

1" axle peg

B

10-32 threaded rod1" long

10-32

threaded rod1" long

10-32threaded rod

1" long

10-32 threaded rod" long

10-32threaded rod

4" long

10-32threaded rod

7" long

10-32 acorn nuts

10-32hex nuts

10-32 acorn nut

10-32acorn nuts

V

U

W

X

C

K

BLADE ASSEMBLY(Left arm assembly not shown for clarity)

4

B

1"

"Spacer

Threadedrod

V X


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woodmagazine com

Cutting Diagram

Materials ListFINISHED SIZE

Part T W L Matl

Undercarriage

A* chassis 112" 3" 878" W

B* radiator 112" 3" 338" W

C* blade-arm

mounts34" 158" 414" M

D wheel spacers 34" 78" 414" M

E sides 34" 158" 718" W

Body

F* hood 134" 278" 234" W/M

G cab riser 34" 3" 338" M

H back 34" 112" 238" W

I cab platform 14" 412" 334" W

J* cab 112" 214" 312" W

K* cab sides 34" 114" 2" M

L cab roof 38" 234" 312" M

M* roll bars 38" 78" 112" M

Tracks

N* back tracks 12" 112" 114" W

O* top tracks 12" 112" 458" W

Blade

P blade back 14" 258" 714" W

Q blade top 38" 118" 714" M

R blade ends 14" 214" 418" W

S* blade bottom 34" 1" 714" W

T* arms 12" 34" 938" M

U* brackets 12" 78" 112" M

V* lifts 38" 58" 6" M

W* braces 38" 58" 414" M

X* blade pivots 14" 12" 212" M

*Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions.

Materials key:Wwalnut, Mmaple.Supplies:Double-faced tape, spray adhesive,blue thread lock.Bits:45 chamfer bit; 316",732",14",1132",12", 1" drill bi

SourceWood/hardware kit:Contains the following wparts and hardware: 2" tandem wheels (6), 238" axle (6), 1" single wheels (8), 118" axle pegs (10),58112" smstack (1), 10-3212" threaded rod (2), 10-32 acorn nu10-32 hex nuts (4), 14" washers (8), 38" washers (6). Kit4043, $19.95 plus shipping, Meisel Hardware Specia800-441-9870, meiselwoodhobby.com.

and insert the pegs into the blade-armmounts (C) (dont use glue). Insert 78"lengths of threaded rod through theback of the arms, apply thread lock, and

tighten the acorn nuts just enough thatthe blade lifts and lowers, but stays at aset position. Now find a driver willing tosee if youve made the grade.

B B

E E

F

H

IJJ

N

O

P

R

AAS

* O*

*

***

*R*

x 5 x 60" Walnut (2.5 bd. ft.) *Plane or resaw to the thicknesses listed in the Materials List.

GLUE THE BRACE AND BRACKET

H

With the blade (PS) flat on the bench andsecured to the arm (T), glue the brace (W) andbracket (U). Clamp with a rubber band.

DONT FORGET THE NUTS

I

Thread on a nut as the rod passes throughthe arm (T). Thread two more after the firstlift (V) and the fourth after the second lift.

All three pieces in ourConstruction-Gradeseries work hard. The crane,left(issue 185, September2008), lifts and lowers itsbucket and spins, and theexcavator,below(issue 194,November 2009), has anarticulated boom for reachingand scooping. Downloadthe plans for a small fee atwoodmagazine.com/plans.Type crane in the search boxto find both plans.

FF G

X V W

L*

**

* **

Q*

C

D

K

x 5 x 36" Maple (1.5 bd. ft.)

M*

T U

W

T

P

R

Q

U

T

T

S

V

Produced by Craig RuegseggerwithJeff M

Project design:Jeff Mertz

Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna John

Rubber band
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8/88

B

efore your favorite youngster gets bogged

down

in

video games, give a gift

that

lets his imagina

tion

do

the lifting this

sturdy wooden crane.

uild the

m st

and oom

For the mast sides

B)

and mast spacers (C), cut two

x l ~ x 2 6

blanks (We used maple).

u t one

mast

side

and one

spacer from each blank. Chuck a

1

Forst

ner

bit into your drill press

and

drill five holes

in the

mast sides

[Drawing 2 Photo B]

2

TO

assemble

the

mast,

cut

two x214x24 cauls

from scrap. (We usedMDF.) Cover one side of each

caul with masking tape to keep glue from sticking.

Apply tape

to one

side of each mast B)

to mark the

mast spacer (C) locations [Drawing 2] (The thickness of

the

tape provides just enough of a lip

to

keep

the

spac

ers from shifting and makes it easy

to

remove

excess glue.) Glue

and

clamp

the

mast

[PhotosC

and 0].

Mark

the 6 boom

pivot

hole center

on

one mast

side B)

[Drawing 2]

Chuck a

brad-point bit into your drill

'press, insert a -thick scrap

block between

the

mast sides

to

pre-

vent chip-out, and drill the hole.

4

Form

the

mast (B/C)

top

bevel

[Drawing 2 Photo E], and

sand it

smooth. Sand Va round-overs

on the top

corners of the mast

sides B) and upper mast spacer

(C). Chuck a chamfer bit into

your table-mounted router, and

rout

Y 6

chamfers along

the

edges of

Junior operating engineers will enjoy

doing

the

heavy lifting

with

this fully

operational construction

toy

Make the chassis

For

the

chassis A), cab (G),

and

counterweight (H),

cut

a

lYzx6 4xI2

blank. We used walnut .) Rip a

lYz -wide

piece from

one

edge,

and

set it aside for

the

cab and counterweight. ut the remainingpiece

to

size

for

the

chassis

[Materials List page 7 ]

2

Lay

out the chassis A) front and rear bevels

[Drawing

1], and bandsaw and sand them to shape.Then chuck

an

hz brad-point bit into your drill press, position the

fence W' from the bit center,

and

drill axle holes

in both

sides of the chassis

[Photo

A]. Finish-sand the part.

~ ~ n t r a c t o r

rade


9/88

PROJ T

I LI TS

Apply glue

and

position the mast spa

on one

mast side (6). Apply glue

and

second mast side.

width of

the

mast (B/C) and th

sides (I). Rout a chamfer along

front edge [Drawing ] Drill shan

for fastening

the

hoist base

to th

sides (B). (For the 8 screws, d

shank

holes

and 64

pilot holes.

3

Clamp

the

hoist sides I to th

base

m

[Drawing ] Dril

With the glue dry, remove the clamp

cauls, mark the bevel

at

the

top of th

and

bandsaw it to shape.

Layout the axle hole centers

on the

c

(A).

Clamp

the

chassis

to the

drill-pre

at

each location,

and drilllW -deep

h

Clamp

the

parts

between the

cauls,

and then

clamp vertically. Keep the mast sides

(6) and

lower mast spacer

(C)

flush

atthe

bottom.

Join

the

two mast sides

(6)

with double-faced

tape, mark

the 1

hole centers,

and

drill

through

both

parts.

Fabricate th

hoist

1

From

Y2 -thick

stock, cut

the

hoist

sides (I) to size. Adhere them face-to

face with double-faced tape. Mark hole

centers [Drawing Sa], and drill the holes

on your drill press with a l 4 brad-point

bit. Layout the angled corner. Bandsaw

and sand it

to

shape. Sand round-overs

on

the corners at

both

ends of the angle.

Separate

and

finish-sand

the

parts.

2

Cut the

hoist base

mto

size, making

sure the width equals the combined

the counterweight to

the boom

(D/E/F),

Y2 from the end

and

centered.

Overall

dimensions: 25

high

x13Ya

reach x

7.

track xll Va

wheelbase.

Hand-operated

hoists

raise and

lo '{er

the

boom

and bucket.

The

tower

assembly

pivots smoothly

on

a ball-bearing lazy

Susan to

easily pick

up

and

place loads.

Awide-track

chassis

featuring eight

sets

of

dual wheels provides

sure-footed

mobility.

You provide

the

flat stock and

a few

wood screws. We provide

a one-stop

source

for the remaining hardware and

special

fittings.

Skill uilder

Discover how to hold rounded items steady

for

drilling on your drill press.

dd cab and

ount rw ight

1

Retrieve the walnut cab

(G)

and

counterweight H blank. Mark the

hole center

near one

end [Drawing la].

Chuck a I Forstner bit

into

your drill

press,

and

drill the hole.

Then

bandsaw

and sand the

Va

angled corner. Crosscut

the cab from the blank. Now rout lIJ 6

chamfers along the edges of the hole

and

Va

chamfers along

the

outside edges

of the cab. Finish-sand the cab.

2

TO position the cab (G) on the mast

(B/C), first insert

the boom

between

the mast sides (B),

and

slide a piece of

10-32 threaded rod through the holes

in both assemblies.

Then

glue and clamp

the

cab

to

the mast sides (B) [Drawing 1

and Photo G] Remove the boom from

the mast.

3

From the

remaining

walnut blank,

cut

the counterweight H

to

size.

Rout chamfers on the edges [Drawing 1],

and finish-sand it. Now glue and clamp

the

I

holes

and the

outside edges of the

mast, except for the bottom. Finish-sand

the mast.

5

From a

%xl%x22

piece of stock,

resaw and plane a 14 -thick

blank

for

the front spacer (D) and rear spacer (E).

(We used walnut.)

Cut

the parts

to

length. Bandsaw and sand the chamfer

on the front spacer and the taper

on

the

rear spacer [Drawing 3].

6

From a

x l

Vax Y

piece of stock,

resaw and plane the two boom sides

(F).

(We used maple.) Glue

and

clamp

the boom spacers

(D, E) between

the

boom sides [Drawing 4 and Photo

F].

7

With the glue dry, use your drill

press

to

drill a %2 hole through the

rear spacer (E) for the boom-operating

str ing, a 0/] 6 hole for the boom pivot,

and another

0/] 6

hole at the front end of

th e boom [Drawing 4]. When drilling

the front hole, insert a W-thick piece of

scrap

between the boom

sides (F)

to

pre

vent

chip-out. Then mark the two

tapered cuts, and bandsaw and

sand

them

to

shape. Sand W radii

on the

boom ends. Now rout

lIJ 6

chamfers

along the edges. Finish-sand the boom.


10/88

As

with the

mast,

cu t 3/

4

x%x24 cauls,

applying masking tape,

to

align

the

spacers

(0 , E)

between the

boom sides (F)

fo r

gluing.

Sparingly

apply glue

to

the

cab (G),

position

it against

the

boom (D/E/F),

centered

on

the

mast

(B/C), and clamp

the

cab in place.

Using

the

holes in

the

hoist side (I) as guid

drill

3/

16

holes fo r

the

threaded rod throu

the

mast (B/C)

with

a

brad-point bit.

'is

hole

-- --n,

; r

1/1S chamfers

routed

after

assembly

, }

~

~

b

,

, \

~

I

J

1

holes,

and

drive

the

screws. (For

screws, drill 4

shank

holes

and

pilot holes.) Clamp

the

mast (B

between

the

hoist sides. Using

the

sc

holes

in

the

hoist base

as

guides, d

pilot holes

into

the

mast sides

(B),

String 24 long

)

.....o-- -1O-32 cap nut

.....

6 x 1 2

e

panhead screw

l

, r s - 3 ~ ~ 1 1 f 2

4 ~ - - - - - -

\ j 1/1S

chamfer

f i::::::::::=T'l on al l edges

,

~

\:.1f2

1

G

_

10-32 threaded rod

25/a

long

...

- _ ~

0\

10-32 cap nut

41f2

%

' -:J.l,,2\(2' ' 11

~ @

S w a S h e r ~ ~

6) )

@ ~

2x11f2

&

, 'em

wheel

@

~

10-32 cap nut @

@ ~

10-32 threaded rod

35/a long

8 x 2 F.H. wood

s r w ~

i

3' lazy Susan,

1

centered

~ - - -

1

0-32 threaded rod

iIto

0 11/8

long

' ---#10-32

cap nut

Snap hook

/

XPLO

VI W

I ICABDETAIL

1/8 chamfer

1

1f2 ----j

l

4'

~ u


11/88

SHOP TIP

ow

to s fely hold rounded

objects for drilling

Enlarging the screw holes in the wood

knobs for

the

hoist assembly presents

two challenges: holding a part with a

domed surface steady on the drill-press

table, and keeping

it

from spinning

as the drill bit bites into the surface.

Here's an easy way to overcome both.

Drill a

hole

4

deep in a piece of

-thick scrap. Place a1Y2x1 W' piece

of double-faced

tape

over the hole, as

shown at

right

Center the knob over

the hole, and press down firmly. Now

support the scrap with the drill-press

fence, centering the bit on

the

knob

screw hole, and drill, as shown at

f r right

This method also works for

drilling into wood balls.

drive

the

screws. Now,

on

your drill

press, drill

0/1 6

holes through the mast

[Photo

H].

4

With

themast/hoist assembly upside

down, position the lazy Susan

on

the hoist base

G)

equidistant from the

front and side edges. Drill pilot holes,

and drive

the

screws [Drawing 1]. Then

position the mast/hoist assembly

on

the

chassis (A), and mark the lazy Susan

screw-hole locations [Photo I] Now

remove the mast/hoist assembly, and

drill

the

holes.

5

uttwo 4 -long pieces of 4 dowel,

and glue a spool onto each piece,

centered

on the length

[Drawing 5].

With the

glue dry, dri ll a 2 hole, cen

tered, through each spool

and

dowel.

6

Enlarge the screw holes in four 114 -

diameter wood knobs to

14

drilling

them

deep.

To

hold

the

knobs

on the

drill press, see the Shop Tip bove

pply finish nd ssemble

1

Remove the lazy Susan, mast (B/C),

and

hoist sides

(I)

from

the

hoist

base

G).

Examine all parts and assem

blies, and finish-sand where needed.

Slide

the

wheels

and

bucket onto a W'

dowel, and support it a t the ends with

x

scraps. To hold the axles and keep

finish off the ends for gluing, drill eight

holes

into

a

x

scrap and insert the

axles. Drill six

W

holes at least

2

apart

into another

scrap block. Insert short

pieces of

JA

dowel

into

four of

the

holes,

Center the

lazy

Susan on

the chassis

(A

rotate the mast/hoist assembly to unco

the mounting holes, and mark the loca

@ .

i d B . ~ . ~ . , . , . . ; , : . . ~ , ... ;:' _

~ ~ _ - - - - - - - - - 1 6 3 / 8

3/(.47--

t

BOOM SPACERS

I

V ( U - - 4 3 4 ~

r ~ ~

rim after assembly 1W'

BOOM

ASSEM

Parts trimmed

7after assembly


12/88

Materials List

FINISHED SIZE

Part T W L MatI.

~

~

1W' wood kno

W' dowel 4 long

1

Va X 7 a

spool

1/4

washer

3/32

hole

10-32 cap nut

a x .78 compression spring

A*

chassis lVz

4Vz

11

w

B*

mast sides

lVz

22 M

C*

mast spacers

% 1

1

12

3

M

D*

front spacer

1%

16%

w

E*

rear spacer 4

1%

4% w

F boom sides

%

1%

22Vz M

G*

cab

lVz 1112

2%

w

H* counterweight

2

3

w

hoist sides Vz

2% 4%

W

hoist base

3%

6V.

w

Parts initially cut oversize. See the

instructions.

HOIST

Location of tower

1

Shank hole countersunk on bottom faCe)

6x 1V4 F.H.

wood screw

~ ~ W wood knob

~ I V4

hole 3 a deep

10-32 cap nut

G

\ 1 \ J V. washers

-@

0 @

'ih

.\.

.

~ ~

.

1{2

10-32 threaded rod

3

5

/a long

4

chamfer ~

~

f\

31/4

excess cord onto

the

spool

by turning

the knobs.

7

Cut a nil-long piece ofstring,

thread

it

through the

hole

in the

front

spool, and tie it off. Then route

the

cord

t hrough the space between the front

spacer

(D) and

rear spacer

(E),

over

the

top of

the

upper mast spacer (C),

and

between

the

front spacer

and the

front

threaded rod. Tie the snap hook onto

the end

of

the

string,

and wind the

excess

onto the

spool. Finally, clip

the

bucket bail onto

the

hook, slip

on

your

hard hat, and start up your engines

and

your imagination

mHOISTSI E

and

press a knob

onto the end

of each

one. Wrap masking tape around one

end

of each spool dowel, and insert the other

end

into one of

the

remaining holes.

Apply a clear finish to all

the

parts

and

assemblies. (We applied four coats of

aerosol satin lacquer, sanding between

coats

with

320-grit sandpaper.

To

smooth

the

wheels between coats, use a soft brass

wire brush.)

2

Slide a wheel and washer onto each

axle. Glue

the

axles into

the

chassis

(A)

holes, inserting business cards

between the wheels

and

washers to

ensure free spinning.

3

Screw one hoist side

(I)

to

the

hoist

base 0

[ rawing

5]. Slip a washer,

spring,

and

another washer

onto

each

spool dowel, and insert the dowels into

the

hoist side holes. Slip

another

washer,

spring,

and

washer over each dowel,

and

fasten

the

second hoist side

in

place,

capturing the spool dowels within the

hoist side holes. Add a washer to each

dowel protruding from

the

hoist sides,

and

glue

the

knobs onto

the

dowels.

4

Screw

the

mast (B/C) to the hoist

base. Cut two 3W'-long pieces of

10-32 threaded rod

(%

longer

than the

total thickness of

the

assembly),

and

slide

them

through the hoist sides (I)

and mast

[ rawing

5]. Apply medium

strength thread locker to

the

rod ends,

and

thread

on

cap nuts. Screw

the

lazy

Susan to the hoist base 0 , and

then

to

the

chassis

(A).

5

Cut

one 2% -long

and one

ll;8 -long

pieceofthreaded rod. Slide

theboom

(D/E/F/H) between

the

mast sides (B).

Slide

the

long rod t hrough the pivot

holes

[ rawing

1].

Apply thread locker

and

cap nuts. Slide

the

short rod

through

the holes at the front end of

the

boom,

and

apply thread locker and cap nuts.

6

Cut a 24 -long piece of string

and

tie

a

knot in

one end. Thread it from

the

top through

the

hole

in the

rear

spacer (E), through the hole in the rear

spool,

and then

tie it off. Wind

the

4 X 3

1

/2

X 60 Maple (1.7 bd.

ft.)

'Plane or resaw to the thicknesses listed

in

the Materials List.

1V2 X 7V. x 12 Walnut (1.3 bd. ft.)

a : :Jmt:::':::::::::::n* ::::j

ource

Hardware kit: Each kit

includes the

following pa

tandem

wheels

(8), tandem wheel axles (8), Is flat

washers (8),

3

lazy Susan, 10-32x12 threaded ro

10-32 cap

nuts (8),

snap hook,

wood

bucket,

lV.

knobs

(4),

l x

'/.

spools (2), V4x9y wood dowe

. flat washers (12), ,/. x .78

compression springs

black nylon string (14 ft.). Order kit

no. 3122, $24.9

plus shipping. Meisel Hardware Specialties,

~ 0 0 4 4 1 9 8 7 0

meiselwoodhobby.com.

Materials key:

W-walnut, M-maple.

Supplies:

8x2 and

6xlV4'

flathead

wood screw

6x

W panhead

screws, double-faced

tape.

Bits:

45 chamfer

router bit;

3/

16

, W , and 11hz brad

drill

bits; 1 Forstner

bit.

Written

by

an vec

Project design: Jeff Mertz

Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine Lorna Johnson

J

D

3f4

5V2

Cutting Diagram

G H


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32 WOOD magazineNovember 2

When its time to fill up a toydump truck, heres the rightmachine for the job. With a

pivoting body for tight turns, and abucket that lifts and dumps, this rig

End Loader

Construction-grade

Dimensions: 7"H534"W1

works much like the real thing. Craftedfrom walnut and maple, it matches ourother Construction-grade toys (pages3435). A kit provides all the specialtyparts you need [Source,page 36].

Shape parts for the rear unit

1Make two photocopies ofpage38aone photocopy ofpages 37 and39

the WOOD Patterns insert. Prepare34512634" walnut blank for the re

A

SUPPORT THE REAR CHASSIS

To position the chassis (A) for drilling the axlehole, rest it on a scrap at least 112" thick. Clamp thechassis to the fence to prevent it from turning.

B

CREATE A GRILL

Make a pass with each edge against the rip fence tocut the two outermost kerfs. Reposition the fencefor the next pair of kerfs and repeat.

C

CLAMP THE CAB AND DRILL

A handscrew provides a secure grip on the cab (Ewhile drilling the 1" hole for the window. Back outhe bit frequently to clear the chips.

A

B

E

Scrap


28/88

woodmagazine.com

chassis (A). Spray-adhere a copy of theRear Chassis Pattern to the blank, andbandsaw and sand the chassis to shape.

2Drill the1132" hole where indicated

[Photo A]. Then drill the316" through-hole where shown.

3Laminate four layers of 34234412"maple for the hood (B) [Drawing 1].

After the glue dries, trim the blank to

size [Materials List], and attach copies ofthe Hood Side-View and Hood Top-ViewPatterns. Following the top-view pat-tern, cut the kerfs for the radiator grill[Photo B]. Then drill the 14" hole whereshown and bandsaw the bevel followingthe side-view pattern. Chamfer theedges where shown.

4Laminate two pieces of3423" wal-

nut for the steps (C). Resaw and sandthe blank to 138" thick; then, cut thedadoes for the steps [Drawing 1a]. From34"-thick maple, lay out and cut the cabsupport (D) to size [Drawing 1].

5From a laminated walnut blank, cutthe cab (E) to size, and attach a copy

of the Cab Side-View Pattern to it. Drillthe hole for the window [Photo C]; then,chamfer the edges of the window, andcut the bevel along the front of the cab.

6Cut the maple roof (F) to size [Draw-ing 1], and chamfer the front edge.

B

E

F

AD

J

C

x 1" smokestack

" ax2" l

2" wheels

" round-overs

" hole

" washer

" hole" deep

" chamfer

2"

1"

2""

2"

1" hole

1"

"

"

1"

1" 2"

3"

" hole

1"

"

"

"

"

""

"

2"

3"

C

7Retrieve all of the parts cut to shapeso far, moisten the patterns withmineral spirits, and scrape them away.Finish-sand all parts to 220 grit.

Load up for assemblyAssemble the rear unit of the loadshown in Photos DHbelow. Allow theto dry at least 20 minutes between ste

F

ATTACH THE STEPS TO THE HOOD

Apply glue to the rear face and bottom of the steps(C) keeping it at least 14" from the ends. Then centerand clamp the steps to the chassis and hood.

D

GLUE THE HOOD IN PLACE FIRST

Apply glue to the bottom of the hood (B) andclamp it to the rear chassis (A), flush with the edgesand set back 516" from the wide end of the chassis.

G

ADD THE CAB

Glue and clamp the cab (E) to the hood (B), steps(C), and cab support (D), centering the cab on thewidth of the hood.

E

MAKE A PLATFORM FOR THE CAB

While the hood assembly dries, glue and clamcab support (D) flush with the top edge of the(C), and centered between the ends.

H

TOP IT WITH THE ROOF

Clamp the chamfered face of the roof (F) to the(E), centered from side to side and front to bacwith the chamfer facing down and forward.

B

A

DC

B

A

D

B

E E

C C

D

F

REAR UNIT ASSEMBLY1

STEPS Front view1a


29/88

Shape parts for the front unit

1Cut the front chassis (G) and pivotblock (H) to size [Drawings 2, 2a].

Drill the 316" hole in the pivot block and

the 1132" hole in the chassis whereshown. Then rout the chamfer on theend of the pivot block.

2From14" maple, cut two 212234"

blanks for the arm braces (I). Stackthe blanks together with double-faced

tape between them, and their ends andedges flush. Attach the Arm Braces Pat-tern to the stack and drill the 316" holewhere shown. Then, cut the braces toshape [Photo I] and finish-sand them.

J

BUILD UP THE FRONT END

Glue the arm brace/pivot block assembly (H/I) tothe front chassis (G), clamping the parts to yourbench while the glue dries.

I

CUT IDENTICAL PARTS THE EASY WA

By cutting both arm braces (I) at the same time, yguarantee they will be identical. Do the same latewith the bucket sides (M) and arms (P).

3Glue the arm braces (I) to the edgof the pivot block (H), with thfront ends and bottom faces flush. Afthe glue dries, glue this assembly to tfront chassis (G) [Photo J].

4Laminate maple stock to make

11211212" blank. Spray-adhetwo copies each of the Rear FenderaFront Fender Patterns along one face the blank. Bandsaw and sand the feners (J, K) to shape. Remove the patter

I

P

A

K

I

" hole

1"

"

2"

2"

1"

H

G"

"

K

" chamfer

" axle peg2" long

2" wheels

" washer

10-32 lock nut

10-32 lock nut

10-32threaded rod

1" long

10-32threaded rod

1" long

" hole

"hole2"

4"

"H

"

"

"

WOOD magazineNovember 234

Build the whole crew

Give the crane

(issue 185,September2008) a spin onits base, andraise andlower itsbucket witha crank.

Purchase plans and kits for these companion projects atwoodmagazine.com/cgtoys .

Reach out and scoop withthe excavator (issue 194,

November 2009).

Move earth with the bulldozer (issue 1September 2010).

For heavy hauling, fill the dumptruck (issue 215, November 2012).

I

H

I

I

G

Keep the frontends flush.

FRONT UNIT ASSEMBLY2

PIVOT BLOCK Top view2a


30/88

and rout 116" round-overs on the outsideedges, making sure you end up withmirrored pairs. Finish-sand the fenders.

5Temporarily join the front unit(G/H/I) with the rear unit (AF)using a length of 10-32 threaded rodand lock nuts. Dry-fit two wheels and anaxle peg in the front and rear chassis,then apply glue to the edge of eachfender and hold or clamp them in placefor a few minutes until the glue grabs[Photos K and L]. After the glue dries,repeat the process for the other side.

Build the bucket and arms

1Cut the bucket back (L), sides (M),top (N), and bottom (O) to size, bev-eling the indicated edges of the back,top, and bottom [Drawing 3]. Rout a 18"chamfer along the top front edge of thebucket bottom.

2Spray-adhere the Bucket Top Patternto the top (N). Miter the two corners,

and drill the holes where shown. Cham-fer both faces of the holes and the frontedge. Finish-sand pieces LO to 220 grit

The tractor pulls both theside-dump and lowboy trailers.

(Find all three pieces in issue205, July 2011.)

woodmagazine.com

Put the scraper to work (issue 219, July 2013). Load and spin with theskid loader (issue 211,May 2012).

Rev up the motor grader (issue 208November 2011).

M

GLUE THE BACK TO THE BOTTOM

With the bucket bottom (O) resting on your bench,glue the bucket back (L) to its top face. Hold thepieces in place until the glue grabs.

L

O

K LAlign the center section of the rear fenders (J) parallel to and 1316" below the top of the hood (B). Toposition the front fenders (K), refer to the location shown on the Arm Braces Pattern.

J

B

K

POSITION THE FENDERS

N

ADD THE BUCKET TOP

Stand the bucket back and bottom assembly(L/O) on end and glue the bucket top (N) in place,sandwiching the bucket back.

O

FINISH OFF THE BUCKET

Glue and clamp the bucket sides (M) in place aset the bucket aside to dry while you move onmaking the arm assembly.

O

L

M

O

ML

N

N

before assembling the bucket as shownin Photos M,N, andO.

3From14" stock, cut two 234518"

blanks for the arms (P). Stack theblanks together as you did with the armbraces (I), apply a copy of the Arm Pat-tern, cut and sand them to shape, anddrill the holes where shown. Separate

the arms and remove the pattern.

4Cut the arm spacer (Q) to size andfinish-sand it. Slide a 212" length of

10-32 threaded rod through the holthe upper ends of the arms (P) to athem, then glue and clamp the spacer between the arms [Photo P].

5Cut the brackets (R)18" wider

listed [Materials List]. Apply a BraPattern to each bracket and roundedge as shown in Photo Q. Note the g

orientation; the rounded and the osite square surfaces should be edge gnot end grain.


31/88

L

M

M

N

O

Q

20 bevel

20 bevel

x 1 x 1"

10-32threaded rod

1" long

10-32 lock nut

10-32 lock nuts

10-32 lock nut

10-32 lock nut

10-32threaded rod

1" long

10-32threaded rods

1" long

20 bevel

5"

2"

5"

1"

"

R

"

" chamfer

I

P

P

20 bevel

BUCKET AND

LIFT ASSEMBLY

3

36 WOOD magazineNovember 2

Materials ListFINISHED SIZE

Part T W L Matl. Q

Rear and front units

A rear chassis 34" 512" 634" W

B* hood 3" 212" 4" LM

C steps 138" 2" 3" LW

D cab support 34" 1" 212" M

E cab 2" 212" 3" LW

F roof 14" 212" 214" M

G front chassis 34" 212" 234" W

H pivot block 34" 2" 4" W

I arm braces 14" 212" 234" M

J rear fenders 112" 114" 312" LM

K front fenders 112" 34" 1516" LM

Bucket and lift

L bucket back 14" 1132" 514" M

M bucket sides 14" 212" 3" M

N bucket top 14" 212" 514" M

O bucket bottom 14" 2716" 514" M

P arms 14" 234" 518" M

Q arm spacer 12" 112" 1" W

R* brackets 38" 34" 34" W

*Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions.

XFellowWOODreaders inspire creativitwith toys of their own at

woodmagazine.com/toygallery.XPrefer slightly larger big-boy toys?

Check out some 12-scale versions atwoodmagazine.com/bigmodels.

P

LIFT YOUR ARMS TO ASSEMBLE THEM

To align the arms (P) and the arm spacer (Q) duringglue-up, rest the pieces on a thick scrap.A lengthof threaded rod aligns the top ends of the arms.

Q

GIVE SMALL PIECES A HANDLE

To create the radius on the brackets (R), glue eachone to a scrap handle. After sanding up to thepattern line, cut the bracket free.

R

ATTACH THE BUCKET

With the bucket and the ends of the brackets (R)resting on your bench, press and hold the buckeagainst the brackets.

x 7 x 36" Maple (2 bd. ft.)

x 7 x 24" Walnut (1.3 bd. ft.)

A

Q*

C H

R*E G

*Plane or resaw to thicknesses listed in the Materials List.

B B B B

DJ K,

I* M*

N*

F* L*

O*

P*

Materials key:Wwalnut, LMlaminated maple,LWlaminated walnut, Mmaple.Supplies:Double-faced tape, spray adhesive.Bits:316", 14",1132" 12", 1" drill bits; 18" round-over, 45chamfer router bits.

SourceHardware kit:The kit contains all the specialty parts(wheels, axle pegs, and smokestack) and hardware (nolumber) needed to build one end loader. Order kit no.RS-00988, $19.95+shipping, 888-636- 4478,woodmagazine.com/loader.

Produced by Craig Ruegseggerwith Kevin Boyle

Project design: Kevin Boyle

Illustrations: Lorna Johnson

Cutting Diagram

Q

PP

P

RLPTop ends of

6Cut 1" lengths of 10-32threaded rod and assemble thebrackets (R) to the arms (P) using locknuts [Drawing 3]. Retrieve the bucket(LO) and finish-sand it. Then applyglue to the square edges of the bracketsand glue them to the bucket back (L)[Photo R]. Allow the glue to dry.

7Glue the smokestack [Source] intothe hole in the hood (B) [Drawing 1].Remove the hardware and apply a fin-ish. (We sprayed on three coats of satinaerosol lacquer.) Join the front and rearchassis with a 178" length of 10-32threaded rod and lock nuts [Drawing 3].Secure the wheels with axle pegs gluedinto the chassis (A, G) [Drawings 1 and2], trapping the 38" washers. Finally,attach the bucket arms (P) to the armbraces (I) and brackets (R) with threadedrod and lock nuts [Drawing 3]. Yourloader is ready to fill that truck!


32/88

WOODDear Reader:As a service to you, weve included full-size pon this insert for irregular-shaped and intricate project partsYou can machine all other project parts using the Materials the drawings accompanying the project youre building.

Copyright Meredith Corporation, 2013. All rights reserved. Printed in the U.S.A. Meredith Co

publisher of WOOD Patterns, allows the purchaser of this pattern insert to photocopy these pa

for personal use. Any other reproduction of these patterns is strictly prohibited.

PATTERNNovember 2013 Is

Better Homes and Gardens

Construction-grade LoaderPage 32

Download this full-sizeprintable patterns at

woodmagazine.com/zinio222


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Construction-grade LoaderPage 32




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I

Construction Grade

kid ~ e a d e r

I

I

,

.

.

.

.

.

Dimensio ns

: 8Lx4

1

/a D x

SJ/a"H

-

-

F

om farmyards to building sites, a

nimble skid loader squeezes into

small spaces for a

ll

sorts of jobs:

digging dirt, scooping snow, a nd

moving a

ll

manner

of

material

s.

just like

on

the real-life machine, the arms of

this tabletop version raise and lower a

t ilting bucket. If you haven

t

built any of

the

toys in o

ur

Construction-Grade

series (see

page

61 , th is would be a good

place

to

start. A kit [Source,

page 61)

provides

the

wheels and

th

e hardware.

58

. . .

uild

the body

1

Laminate two layers o ~ walnut to

prepare a JYlx3x

12

blank. Along

the edge

of th

e blank, spray-adhere

photocopies of the Chassis Pattern and

Engine Compartment Side-VIew Pattern

from the

WOOD

Pnttems > insert

on

pag

e

44. Drill

th

e

1

1.J2"

and

:Yt6"

holes where

shown,

then

crosscut

th

e chassis

(A) and

engine compa

rtment (B)

from the blank.

Miter each end of

the

chassis

at

10,

following

th

e lines

on th

e pattern.

2

With a

4"

Forstner bit, drill t

holes W deep in

th

e rea r face of

engine compartment

(B) [Drawing 1

Set your tablcsaw blade W above

table and, with several passes, cu

notch in the engine compartment wh

s

hown

on

th

e pattern. Then bands

the taper along

th

e rear face, and rout

round-overs where s

hown

. Re

mo

ve

pa

tt

erns from the chassis

(A) and

eng

compartme

nt

, sand the parts to 220 g

th

en glue

th

e parts together

[Drawing

WOO

D

magazine May 2


60/88

45

chamfer

D cHASSIS EXPLODED VIEW

3

From Y-1 stock, cu t

th

e cab sides (C)

to size [Drawing 1 . Sp ray-adhere a

copy of the

Cab-Side Pattern

to a bl

ank

(ShopTip,

below]

and scrollsaw and sand

the cab sides to shape. Drill a starter hole

in

the cab

-side window

and

scrollsaw

th

e window.

Then

remove the pattern

and fi nish-sand the cab sides to

22

grit.

SI--IOP T P

Stack cut identic l

p rts in no time

To make identicalparts, sU


61/88

JLOADER ASSEMBLY

10-

32

acorn nut

~

....

...............

10-32 threaded rod 1

ssemble the

pieces

1

Dry-fit the wheels

and

axle pegs

to

the chassis

A)

(Drawing 1].

Cut

a

length

of 10-3Z threaded rod

and attach

the loader arms

G)

to the engine

compartment B) (Drawings 2, 3]. Secure

the rod with acorn nuts. Glue the cross

brace (H) between the arms [Photo B].

SAND THE

WHOLE

BUCKET

laya piece of 220-grit sandpaper on your bench

and sand the edges of the bucket sides K) flush

with the faces of the back

J)

and bottom (l).

60

_ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

.....-... ..

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

--

..

........

..

1o-32 threaded rod

1 o n g

.. ....

..........

2

To make

the

bucket back 0 , sides

K), and

bottom

L),

bevel-rip

at

z

one

edge of a ~ x Z ~ x 1 4 maple blank.

Return the blade to 90, crosscut

the

bucket back

and

bottom to length

[Drawing 2],

and

set the rest of the blank

Ho

ld

the bucket

J/K/l) again5

t the pivot blocks

(M)

for 2 minutes, then let the assemblysit

undisturbed

while

the glue dries.

aside. Tilt the blade to z again,

bevel-rip the square edge of the bu

back to bring it to final width. Leave

blade tilted to z for the next step.

3

Using double-faced tape, attach

bucket

bottom

(L) to a

x

3

carrier board

with

their square e

flush. Stand the carrier board

on

e

and

bevel-rip the front edge of

bucket bottom [Drawing 2]. Spray-ad

copies

of the

Bucket-Side Pattern to

unused portion

of the

blank;

scrollsaw and sand the bucket sides

to shape. Glue

and

clamp

the

bu

together and,

when

the glue dries,

the edges smooth

and

flush [Photo

C

4

Cut

a

b 1 Y walnut

blank

spray-adhere two copies of the P

Block Pattern to it, aligned on opp

edges. Scrollsaw

and sand

the p

blocks (M) to shape.

S

Attach the pivot blocks

M)

to

arms

G)

with t

hr

eaded rod

acorn nuts (Drawings 2, 3]. Apply glu

the

flat faces

of the

pivot blocks,

press the bucket (J/K/L) against th

centered Photo D].

Retrieve the roof

F) and

glue

the cab sides (C), centered [Photo

After

gluingthe roof (F in

place,

raise and

low

the loader arms

G)

to ensure they clear the sid

ofthe roof.

WOOD magazine Ma


62/88

IJEXPLODED VIEW

1032

h r ~ a d e d

rod

W i o o ~

7

After the glue dries, remove the

ha

rdwa

re, tape off the tapered ends

of the axle pegs, and apply a finish. (We

sprayed on three coats of satin

polyurethane, bufnng lightly between

c o a t ~ wi th a 320-grit ~ a n d i n g sponge.)

After the finish dries,

remove

the tape

Build the whole set

With this skid loader, the ConstructlonGrade

toy collection, shownbtlow txpands to

pltcts. crane

(Issue

ISS, Septtmber 2008)

lths and lowersIts bucket and sp ns. ~ a c h and

scoop with artkulattd boomof

tht

e

xcav

ator

Ouue 194, Novtmber 2009). Movt

d1rt

around

with both the bulldozer(lssut

199,

September

2010) and motor grader(lssut 208, November

2011).

For

heavy hauling, tht trac tor pu

lls

both

Mot

or

grader

and reassemble the skid loader, glui ng

the axle

pegs

In

place.

Use

a drop of b

lu

e

thread

locker

on each acorn nut.

Produced

V Cra 9

l u ~ s t g g t r

with Kev

in loyIt

Pro,e


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= = = = = = = ~

LOADER ARM

FULL-SIZE

PATTERN

2 needed)

- - - - - - - -

~ - - - - - - - - - - - - - ~ -

CROSS

BRACE

FULL-SIZE

~ _ _ _ . PATTERN

\

/

Location

of( } '

D

JOINT

P

FULL

-

PATT

4

nee

@

PIVOT

BLOCK

FULL-SIZE

: PATTERN

~ 2

needed

hole


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vehículos pesados para hacer en madera

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