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DISSERTATION REPORT ON
PROPER MERCHANDISING & QUALITY MANAGEMENT SYSTEM
IN RMG SECTOR
SHANTO-MARIAM UNIVERSITY OF CREATIVE TECHNOLOGY
DISSERTATION REPORT ON
PROPER MERCHANDISING & QUALITY MANAGEMENT SYSTEM
IN RMG SECTOR
Prepared for:
Dr. Masud Al Noor
Associate Professor & Head
Dept: AMMT.
SMUCT
Prepared By:
Md.Belal Uddin
ID: 142153024
MMBA 806
Semester: 4th
Batch: 8th
MBA (PFM)
5th
March 2016
Shanto-Mariam University of Creative Technology
5th
March 2016.
To
Dr. Masud Al Noor
Head of the Department (AMMT)
Shanto-Mariam University of Creative Technology
Uttara, Dhaka.
Subject: DISSERTATION REPORT ON PROPER MERCHANDISING & QUALITY
MANAGEMENT SYSTEM IN RMG SECTOR
Dear Sir,
I would like to inform you that I am going to submit a dissertation report on proper
merchandising & Quality Management system in RMG sector. This is suggested by you. If
you need any clarification than please let me know.
I therefore, pray and hope that you would be kind enough to grant my prayer and oblige
thereby.
Sincerely,
…………………
Md.Belal Uddin
ID: 142153024
Semester: 4th
Batch: 8th
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Topic Name Page Number
1. Introduction:………………………………………………………………......…...1
1.1.Methodology:…........................................................................................…..2
1.2.Scope:…………………………………………………………………….....…2
1.3.Limitations:……………………………………………………………....…...3
2. Historical Perspective of Merchandising; …………………………………...…3
3. Derails description About Merchandising:……………………………..……….4
4. Definition of merchandising ………………………………………………....…..4
4.1.Apparel Merchandise:………………………………………………….......…5
4.2.Apparel merchandiser:……………………………………………….....….…4
4.3.Apparel Merchandising:…………………………………………….....……..4
5. Concept & Idea of Merchandising………………………………….....………….5
5.1.Concept: - …………………………………………………………….......……...5
5.2.Idea about merchandising:-……………………………………….....………….5
5.3.Type & Function of Merchandising:-…………………………………....….….5
5.4.Types of Merchandising:………………………………………………......……..6
5.5.Product Merchandising:……….....…………………………………………….....6
5.6.Function of Merchandisers:……………………………………………….......….6
6. Importance of Merchandising:-……………………………………………….........7
7. Implementation of Merchandising:…………………………………………........…7
7.1.Objectives Implementation of Merchandising:……………………………..........7
7.2.Methodology Implementation of Merchandising:…………………………..........7
8. Build up strong network with buying house, supplier of fabrics and accessories:.8
9. Responsibilities of Merchandising: ………………………………………….............9
9.1. Some Important work of a merchandiser:………………………………………....9
9.2. The responsibility of a smart Merchandiser in handling order at four stages:....9
9.3. Some qualities of a Merchandiser:-………………………………………........9
9.10. Activities of Merchandiser…………………………….....…………………..10
9.11. Daily activities of a merchandiser:………………………………………….10
9.12. Weekly activities of merchandiser…………………………………….........10
9.13. Monthly activities of a merchandiser……………………………………….10
9.14. Yearly activities of a merchandiser……………………………………….…11
9.15. After confirming price a merchandiser works:…………………………….11
10. Some Important Issue for a merchandiser as well as factory before starting work
with a new buyer:………………………………………………………………….11
11. The Confirming Order after Merchandiser Do Some Work:-………………...12
11.1. Follow Up all Sections:……………………………………………………….13
11.2. MERCHANDISING PROCESS FLOW…………………………………....13
11.3. Negotiation (Price) Process and Ending of Negotiation as following:……14
12. Process for Implementing Merchandise Plans:………………………………...15
12.1. Receipt of Order:……………………………………………………………..16
12.2. PO (purchase order) –………………………………………………………..16
12.3. FC (fabric commitment) – …………………………………………………...17
12.4. Time & Action plan (T&A) Preparations………………………………......17
12.5. According to T&A we will do our work according to below time schedule:-..17
12.6. Fabric Ordering: ……………………………………………………………..19
12.7. Payment Term: ……………………………………………………………….20
13. Sampling:………………………………………………………………………….20
13.1. Proto Sample:…………………………………………………………………20
13.2. Approval sample: …………………………………………………………….21
13.3. Fit approval samples:…………………………………………………………21
13.4. Size series samples:…………………………………………………….……...21
13.5. Fit Sample:………………………………………………………………...…..21
13.6. Size Set Sample: …………………………………………………………..….21
13.7. PP Sample (Pre-Production sample): ……………………………………....22
13.8. Production Sample: …………………………………………………………..22
13.9. Reference sample: …………………………………………………………….22
13.10. Offer Samples:……………………………………………………….. 22
13.11. Shipment Sample: …………………………………………………….22
13.12. Production Sampling:……………………………………………........23
14. Sample approval: ………………………………………………………………….23
14.1. PP Sample: …………………………………………………………………….23
14.2. Size set: …………………………………………………………………..…….23
14.3. Pre-Production meeting: .............................................................................…23
14.4. Final audit:……………………………………………………………….…….23
15. Merchandising Season: ……………………………………………………….…..24
15.1. Types of Merchandising Season:……………………………………………. 24
16. Basic knowledge of Work Study………………………………………………......24
17. Work study is the most accurate method of setting Standard of performance upon
which effective planning and production control relies upon…………………. 26
17.1. Work study method comprises eight steps, which are given below:- ……...26
17.2. Why bottleneck time created: ……………………………………………....…26
17.3. How to eliminate the bottleneck time: …………………………………....…..26
18. Basic qualifications should have the Merchandisers. ………………………....….27
19. Main function of a Merchandiser to execute an order perfectly on time (schedule):27
20. Sending Quality Sample to the New Buyer for Better Understanding: ………….27
20.1. Sampling Procedure: 2820.2. Approval produces of sales samples: …..…..28
21. Merchandising Procedure to Execute an Order: ……………………………….…29
22. Buyer Approval Procedure of Fabrics, Color &Accessories by Supplier: ………31
23. Master LC Checking Procedure: ………………………………………………...…31
24. ML/C Confirmation Procedure:………………………………………………..…...31
25. Merchandiser should be know some important terms …………………………....31
26. Steps of Negotiation between Merchandiser & Supplier:………………………….33
26.1. Negotiation Process:………………………………………………………….. 33
26.2. Price Negotiation Procedure with Different Suppliers:………………………...33
26.3. Those items are included in P.O. This are-……………………………………...34
26.4. P/I Collection Procedure from Supplies and Checking of P.I:…………………34
26.5. PI Sheet and Its Items:…………………………………………………………....34
26.6. Daily Production Report from the Supplier & Monitoring: ……………….35
26.7. Preparation of Shipping Sample and Sending To Buyer:…………………..35
26.8. Investigation to Third Party like SGS, ITS for Final Inspection:…………35
26.9. Trim Card Preparation……………………………………………………....36
27. Collection of All Relevant Documents From Different Companies And
Organizations Like GSP, CO,
etc.:…………………………………………………………………36
27.1. GSP……………………………………………………………………….….:36
27.2. CO:………………………………………………………………………..…..36
27.3. Preparation of Commercial Invoice………………………………….……..36
27.4. Master L/C:…………………………………………………………….....…..36
27.5. Forwarding Agents: …………………………………………………….....…37
27.6. Documentation Submission Procedure to the Bank:………………………….37
27.7. Documentation for Opening L/C: ………………………………………..…….37
27.8. Bill of Lading:……………………………………………………………...……38
27.9. Insurance Documents:…………………………………………………..………38
27.10. Invoice:…………………………………………………………....……..39
27.11. Certificate of Origin……………………………………………..……...39
28. Order Confirmation Documents…………………………………………….……..40
29. Garments Costing : …………………………………...................………….……..44
29.1. Garment costing: …………………………………………………………….....44
29.2. Direct costing: ………………………………………………………....………..43
29.3. Indirect cost:………………………………………………………….……… 44
29.4. Costing terminology:………………………………………………………… 44
29.5. FAS –free alongside ship: ……………………………………………………43
29.6. FOB- Free on board :………………………………………………………… 44
29.7. C&F-cost and freight:………………………………………………….…..… 44
29.8. CIF –cost insurance freight:………………………………………….………. 43
29.9. LDP- landed and duty paid:…………………………………………………..45
29.10. Cost sheet preparation:………………………………………………..45
29.11. Cost Sheet Analysis………………………………………...…………..45
30. How to calculate fabric consumption in Woven & Knit Garments?.46
30.1. Knit Garments Fabric Consumption Formula ……………………………….46
30.2. For Woven Garments | Woven Shirt and Pant Consumption Calculation:.. 47
30.3. Consumption Formula for Woven Pant………………………………………:49
30.4. Consumption Calculation for Woven Basic Pant: ……………………………50
31. Some importance trams of Merchandising: ………………...................…………52
32. Quality Management System…………………………....................……….…….. 70
32.1. Quality Assurance ………………………………………………………...…….70
32.2. Quality Control ………………………………………..................…………….70
32.3. Quality Mission Statement:- …………………………………..............…………70
32.3. Objectives:- ……………………………………………………...................…...70
33. Factory Standard Inspection Packet (SIP):………………………………………..71
34. ISO 9000 - Quality management:…………………………………………..………71
35. Quality Management Principles:…………………………………………..……….72
36. Pre- Production System’s:………………………………………….....…………….73
37. All the above stages mentioned in the Pre-production Flow chart have been
explained in detailed below --
…………………………………………………………..............73
38. The Four Point system classifies defects as shown in Table1: ………………..74
39. The inspection procedure listed below details the steps involved in performing the
piece goods inspection in the correct manner…………………………………………….75
40. Pre-Production Size set:-..………………………………………………..……..78
41. Pre-Production Meeting:-……………………………………………….………79
42. Production Test Run:-……………………………………………………...…….80
43. How to conduct a test run?...................................................................................80
44. Factory QC responsibility: ……………………………………………....………81
45. Production System’s:…………………………………………………......………82
46. Cutting systems:…………………………………………………………….....….83
47. Sewing in process inspection reports:……………………………………..……83
48. Steps to be followed in case of a fail bundle inspection:…………………..…..83
49. The above system acceptance level is based on AQL 1.5 ……………...….. 84
50. Procedure of inspecting garments while doing a dupro audit:………………. 85
51. Finishing Quality Control ……………………………......…………………….86
51.1. Packing Output statistical Audits: ……………………………....………….86
51.2 Pre-Final and Final Inspection …………………………………….....………86
51.3. Management Audit: …………………………………………......……………87
51.4. Final Inspections:-………………………………………………….......……...87
51.5. How to Read AQL table? …………………………………….....…………... 88
52. Conclusion ………………………………………………………..........………89
53. Recommendation:………………………………………………..…........…….89
54. Reference: …………………………………………………………......….…….90
55. Appended: …………………………………………………………….......……90
1. Introduction:
The tremendous success of readymade garment exports from Bangladesh over the
last three decades has surpassed the most optimistic expectations. Today the apparel export
sector is a multi-billion-dollar manufacturing and export industry in the country.
The overall impact of the readymade garment exports is certainly one of the most significant
social and economic developments in contemporary Bangladesh. With over one
and a h a l f mi l l i o n w o men w or k e rs emp lo yed in s emi - s k i l l ed and s k i l l ed
j ob s p ro du c i n g clothing for exports, the development of the apparel export industry has
had far-reaching implications for the society and economy of Bangladesh
For Bangladesh, the readymade garment export industry has been the proverbial goose that
lays the golden eggs for over fifteen years now. The sector now dominates the
modern economy in export earnings, secondary impact and employment generated. The
events in1998 serve to highlight the vulnerability of this industry to both internal
and external shocks on the demand and supply side. Given the dominance of the sector in
the overall modern economy of Bangladesh, this vulnerability should be a matter of some
concern tithe policymakers in Bangladesh. Although in gross terms the sector‟s contributions
to the country‟s export earnings is around 74 percent, in net terms the share would be much
less p a r t i a l l y b ecau s e th e b ack w ard l i nka ges i n t ex t i l e h av e b ee n s l o w to
d ev e l op . Th e dependence on a single sector, no matter how resilient or sturdy that sector
is, is a matter of policy concern. We believe the policymakers in Bangladesh should
work to reduce this dependence by moving quickly to develop the other export
industries using the lessons learned from the success of apparel exports. The industry is
one hundred percent export-oriented and therefore insulated from domestic demand shocks;
however, it remains vulnerable to domestic supply shocks and the smooth functioning
of the banking, transportation another forward and backward linkage sectors of the
economy. The Dhaka-Chittagong road remains the main transportation link connecting the
production units, mostly situated in and around Dhaka and the port in Chittagong, where the
raw material and the finished products are shipped in and out. Despite increased dependence
on air transportation, trucks remain the main vehicles for transporting raw materials
and finished products for Bangladesh garment exports.
37.1. Methodology:
At first we want to different garments company and collect information from the personnel,
in preparing this report, we approach according to the following procedure,
Primary Sources
For the completion of this report, the primary sources of data are-
Divine Group of Industry Ltd.
Texkom BD Ltd.
Experts‟ opinion and comments,
Observations of the officials,
Face to face conversations with the employees of Garments.
Secondary Sources
Relevant books, Newspaper, journals etc.
Websites.
Office circular and other published papers.
Manual of different departments.
Data Gathering: Data gathering taken place after preparing the structure for in-depth
interview that will need for supportive information. Interview will be taken with two or three
highly ranked respective officials of all division and Loan department.
Data Processing: After conducting the research it will be justify the findings and will be
written in the form of a report.
Data Analysis: Analysis will be performed from the collected data and findings and
recommendation will make from the results. Select the topic
1. Conduct survey
2. Sorting information
3. Analysis and evaluation of the information
4. Report writing and presenting
37.2. Scope:
Besides Divine Group of Industry Ltd & Texkom BD Ltd. it may be required to go other
garment industry and buying houses. I will talk with in-house department, like finance
department, commercial department, marketing department and all the group of industries to
get right information for my report.
This report must deals with factory observation of a garments industry and communication
with merchandisers then I will work in a factory suggest.
37.3. Limitations:
I think these are the limitation of those industries. The main limitations of the study are as
follows:
The merchandisers of the company are always busy, so they could not provide the
information timely.
Sufficient records, facts and figures are not available. These constraints narrowed the
scope of the real analysis.
There is no special training department for study.
Quality control team are more strong
Those company are compliance
38. Historical Perspective of Merchandising;
After World War II the sales representatives took orders and the manufacturing division of
accompany stock position. The profitability of the company was dependent primarily on
efficient manufacturing. Under this structure manufacturing executives wielded tremendous
power within the organization and within the industry. In the 1960s, brand recognition
became very important. The concept of marketing was embraced by the apparel industry to
evaluate consumer needs and strengthen the image of growing apparel companies through
advertising and promotion. The marketing function was added to company structure. The
rapid growth of many apparel companies also created a new focus on finance and cost
containment, introducing the function of finance and administration. In the late 1960s the
companies that embraced modern marketing concepts prospered, and the marketing
executives took on increased responsibilities and authority within the organization.
Understanding the need to fulfill consumer demands, product development department were
established with creative design capabilities. Early merchandisers focused on overseeing the
design function to ensure that market data where interpreted into desirable product lines in a
timely manner. In the 1970s and 1980s those companies that were able to successfully
interpret the rapidly changing whims of the fashion-buying public into fresh new styles
prospered. This prosperity depended on the talents of the new breed of professional apparel
merchandisers.
After 1980 the garments sector of Bangladesh began to grow as an industry. Lot of
nonprofessional & non-skilled people were started the dealings. Day by day the sector grew
up and it became the main earning source of our country. Foreign experts were hired to
increase the productivity and make the local people skilled. Now more than 77% of the total
export is done from garments sector.
From the beginning Merchandising was the most important part of RMG sector.
Merchandisers were the key people to deal with the buyers and take the orders as well as
make the shipment with expected quality. It is an expert Merchandiser who can bring profit to
his company. But history says that if the Merchandisers behaved more professional the loss
of RMG sector could be minimized
39. Derails description About Merchandising:
Merchandising is a business on marketing activities responsible for ensuring a products
description both quality and quantity. Merchandising means total responsibility of a
Merchandiser.
The key factors behind this are low technological development, lower output, cut throat
competition, high raw material cost, inadequate infrastructure, traditional productivity,
unfavorable regularity policies, and globalization in fact. However, there a fair list of the
producers, suppliers, and exporters that are fully acknowledge with regularity policies and
formalities, international marketing policies and procedures. The only concern is in executing
their productivity initiatives, and meeting with order deadlines.
Now days, major companies are adopting merchandising concepts, which comply with all
procedures to execute and dispatch the shipment on time considering quality, cost and time.
Merchandisers are serious in the success of any garment business. They provide the right
products at the right time, enabling a company to match with latest market trends and meet
the market demand. In the merchandising concept, time management is a gig to manage ones
time properly, so he can focus on value adding actions.
Garments merchandising means the work to buy raw material and accessories to produce
garments (Merchandise) against a particular work order of garment and have to export these
under the same work order within time schedule, maintaining required quality level of buyer.
40. Definition of merchandising
40.1. Apparel Merchandise: The word merchandise refer as the product engaged in
buying and selling in merchandising, the apparel merchandise is the apparel garments or
clothing that is sold out to the foreign buyer by the manufacturer in the process of
merchandising
4.2. Apparel merchandiser: simply we can say the person who is doing apparel
merchandising is called merchandiser. Recently it is define as: Apparel merchandising is the
person who engages himself in sourcing, costing, organizing, arranging and promoting the
sales volume of any commodities is apparel sector.
4.3. Apparel Merchandising: the term of apparel merchandising is the process of dealing
with any product from its sales conformation, design analysis, raw material sourcing,
production and quality control and shipment. Apparel merchandising usually means planning,
development and presentation for a target market in respect of prices, assortment, timing,
styling, etc.
Or: Apparel merchandising means: buying row material, production, garments maintain
quality level and export the garments schedule time.
41. Concept & Idea of Merchandising
41.1. Concept: -
"Merchandising" is known to the persons specially involved in garments trade. The term
merchandising has been derived from the merchandise. Merchandise means goods that are
bought & sold.
The term "Merchandising" may be defined as Person who merchandises the goods,
specifically for export purposes. Garments merchandising means buying raw materials &
accessories, producing garments, maintaining required quality level and exporting the
garments within schedule time. From the above definitions, we can say that a person involved
in garments merchandising needs a wide range of knowledge & skill to perform his job
successfully. The job itself is Technical and general as well.
41.2. Idea about merchandising:-
Merchandising is planning developed and presenting product line for identified target market
with regard to pricing assorting styling and services must be planned developed and
presented. Merchandising is most distinct as a business function among firms that deal with
products that have demand for frequent change. Consequently the foundation of
merchandising principles is rooted in the apparel business. The textile and apparel business is
fascination to study and compared to other industries, has many unique characteristics.
41.3. Type & Function of Merchandising:-
The person who is related in merchandising is called merchandiser. The merchandiser
coordinates with the design team to effectively present the product or product line. He or she
develops colors and specifications, and performs market research to determine the most
effective ways to sell and promote the product. This person needs strong communication and
negotiation skills and visual and analytical abilities. He or she also needs to be a creative and
innovative thinker.
If anybody has to be designated as Merchandiser then the word itself demands some qualities
from that individual, now let us see what all are the hidden meanings there in the word
¨MERCHANDISER¨
M- Should have good Managerial capacity.
E- Efficient in both English written and spoken.
R- Having high sense of Responsibility.
C- Always keep commitment.
H- Leads honest life.
A- Attitude should always be positive in resolving any problem.
N- Never does any argue with buyers and seniors.
D- Fully devoted to his service.
I- Always well Informed about his all orders.
S- Sincere in office and daily works.
E- Enthusiastic in nature.
R- Regular in e-mail correspondence
41.4. Types of Merchandising:
Two type of merchandising done in garment exports
1. Marketing merchandising.
2. Product merchandising.
Ordering Marketing merchandising is to bring orders costly products development and it has
direct contact with the buyer.
41.5. Product Merchandising:
Product merchandising is done in the unit. This includes all the responsibilities from
sourcing to finishing i.e. first sample onwards, the products merchandising work start and
ends till shipment.
41.6. Function of Merchandisers:
1. Developing new samples, execute sample orders
2. Costing
3. Programming
4. Raw materials / Accessories arrangement
5. Production scheduling (or) route card drafting
6. Approval of various Process, Pattern and size set
7. Pre-production follow up
8. Meet Inspection Agencies
9. Production controlling
10. Identifying shortages and make arrangement for the shortages
11. Following quality assurance procedures, quality control procedures
12. Monitoring the in-house, sub-contractors and junior activities
13. Buyer communication
14. Communication with sub-contractors, processing units & other 3rd parties
15. Proper reporting
16. Highlighting to the management
17. Record maintenance
18. Developing samples
19. Placement of orders to suppliers
20. Taking measures for consistent production.
42. Importance of Merchandising:-
We can easily understand the importance of merchandising in our garments industry.
Merchandising is playing a vital role to make new business development process. We will
easily understand the importance of merchandising by following words-
Merchandising helps for business development.
Ensure the products in time delivery.
Create a market in garments industry.
To ensure money in the bank.
Helps for 76% total export of Bangladesh.
Organize supply chain, monitoring and controlling.
In considering the importance of visual merchandising on retail businesses the single and
most important reason is to engage and inspire shoppers, to encourage them to buy more
of the products you want them to, increasing your sales, margin and return on space – after
all, you are running a business! That engagement process of course starts even before they
have set foot in your store.
43. Implementation of Merchandising:
RMG sector has great effect on our country lot of people are fond of an opportunity to
improve their life style by involving in garment sector. Merchandising is the key section for
the garment industry, garments sector basically depends on buyer order. If the factory able to
meet the buyer requirement and delivery the quality goods on time then the factory will be
profitable & can be extend their business & exist in the competitive market.
43.1. Objectives Implementation of Merchandising:
1. Help develop and implement effective merchandising plans by working with retailers,
manufacturers and licensing companies
2. Review and help manage merchandising operations
3. Develop and implement merchandising plans that are as individual as each of our
clients by custom-designing merchandising processes based on each of the client's
one-of-a-kind business strategies
43.2. Methodology Implementation of Merchandising:
1. Review existing merchandise planning methodology and practices
2. Provide new tools and training to implement best practices (Open-to-Buy Excel
Spreadsheets)
3. Suggest new methods and software for planning
4. Assist in install, testing and use of new software and/or new procedures
In the garments manufacturing sector merchandiser‟s has different steps of work to
accomplish. Merchandiser has to follow-up the full order including taking the whole
responsibility. Merchandiser has to undertake & have knowledge about each & every section
of garment. But most of the time garment merchandisers face plenty of problems like non-
coordination, miss-communication, understanding buyer requirements, missing chain of
commands, miss collaboration supply chain management etc. virtually this research based on
Proper Merchandising & Quality management system in RMG sector. This report is divided
in to two parts. Part „A‟ is defining the proper merchandising management system and part
„B‟ is defining the proper quality management system.
44. Build up strong network with buying house, supplier of fabrics and accessories:-
Without bringing up someone close you may not benefited. For this reason a merchandiser
should have a strong network with all buying houses and suppliers so that he can run his
work properly.
Doing all the works a merchandiser can go for the next stage. His second step starts with
getting new order. When a merchandiser gets new order he has to do the below works
1. Receive product package from buyer: His second stage‟s work begins with receiving
product package from his customer.
2. Discuss with planning and product department for production space and ability to
do the work: After observing the product package a merchandiser should have a sound
talk or discussion with the planning and production department about the package to
settle whether they are able to make the product or not.
3. Analyze product package: On the basis of a product package an order will be going on.
So analyzing product package is one of the important duties of a merchandiser.
4. List out type of fabric and accessories: If a merchandiser analyzes a product package he
can list out what type of fabrics and accessories needed for the package.
5. Do consumption of fabrics and accessories: List out fabrics and accessories he will go
for the consumption done.
6. Do the costing and quote price: After doing consumption a merchandiser will be clear
about the costing and he will quote the price accordingly.
7. Negotiate and confirm price: This is the last of a merchandiser performing the
responsibilities of second stage. He should negotiate about the price and confirm it.
45. Responsibilities of Merchandising:
In order to fully appreciate the blend of characteristics and traits that are needed for an
effective merchandiser, it is important to understand the responsibilities the job entails.
Depending upon the size and structure of a company, the merchandiser may be responsible
for some or all of the functions shown in the figure 4.1.
45.1. Some Important work of a merchandiser:
Most importance things for a Merchandiser are:
Communication.
Planning
Production Follow Up
9.2. The responsibility of a smart Merchandiser in handling order at four stages:
1. Sourcing for future orders/Buyers
2. New Order
3. Confirmed Order
4. Running Order
Order → Process → Execute
9.3. Some qualities of a Merchandiser:-
1. Language skill.
2. Computer skill.
3. Marketing skill.
4. Right consumption knowledge of various goods.
5. Costing knowledge of raw materials.
6. Order getting ability (That is if the merchandiser is known by actual rate of raw
materials, so that he can negotiate perfectly with buyer. In this way, the possibility of
getting order is hundred percent.)
7. Sincere& responsible.
8. Hard worker.
9.10. Activities of Merchandiser
Merchandiser need to work in a systematic way to ensure proper delivery of products at due
date. They had to do their work into daily, weekly, monthly and yearly basis. The activities
are-
9.11. Daily activities of a merchandiser:
Checking mails and faxes. They need to give the reply within the day based on
priority.
Checking port status and convey to concern department.
Checking the shipments documents and inform concern department.
Checking daily production status to understand shipment status
Checking shipment schedule and raw materials production status
Follow-up with sample section for different buyers sample
Follow-up with store for fabric and accessories received
Follow-up with the production manager for the production plan
Follow-up with the commercial people L/C,BTB L/C and L/C amendment
Price quotation and delivery confirmation to the buyer
Reporting to marketing and merchandising chief on the daily activities.
Reporting to executive director on the important issue like various meeting,
customer visits compliances and code of conduct
9.12. Weekly activities of merchandiser
Meeting with the fabrics and accessories supplier
Meeting with the buyer and buying houses
Prepare fabric and accessories requirement list, checking with concern and
passing it to supplier with proper specification.
Prepare purchase order with approval and sign of proper authority.
Issuing pro-forma invoice with the approval and sign of the proper authority.
Providing cost break-down to commercial department during L/C opening
9.13. Monthly activities of a merchandiser
Meeting with the production people
Meeting with the quality people and pattern master
9.14. Yearly activities of a merchandiser
Yearly self-assessment on the performance based on number of buyers handled,
shipment quantity, CM charge negotiated, debit note settled with the supplier.
9.15. After confirming price a merchandiser works:
Sourcing for future orders/Buyers: Doing this work he is to do the following
works-
Collect Data of all Buying House: His/her first and for most duty that he is to be
well acquainted with all the buying houses how and abroad.
Select potential Buyers: Collecting data of all buying houses he should select who
are the potential Buyers.
Visit Local Buying House and Give Profile: After selecting potential Buyers he
should have to visit Local Buying House and give profile so that the Local Buying
Houses may know about them.
Write mails to all Buyers: When a Merchandiser collects data of all Buying House
he will be got the contact address. So, writing e-mail to all Buyers is one of the major
duties to be performed.
Attend National & International Seminars: The world has been a global village in
the arena of Marketing. So for marketing anything else everyone should attend
national & international seminars.
Organize a display: In the business world those who can express/show/display
themselves are getting more business. So, organizing a display of his company is a pre
duty of a Merchandiser. For this a Merchandiser may open a well site with well
equipped.
46. Some Important Issue for a merchandiser as well as factory before starting work
with a new buyer:
The buyer name & history.
Final destination or place of delivers the goods.
Buying house name (if any).
Payment terms (L/C or TT or Contact).
If L/C then, the Payment Condition at sight or deferred.
If deferred then, 60 days or 90 days or any other.
Price will be in FOB or CIF?
Is the price will be including buying commission or w/o commission?
Who will inspect the goods?
If third party then who will be pay the inspection charge?
Original art work with styling details or Scan copy must be needed.
Actual & latest size specs with all the sizes which qty in purchase order / order
sheet.
Fabrications details (Composition, Type, Gsm, Peach/sweated,
Enzyme/silicon or any other additional requirement).
Additional fabric details (Appliqué etc, if any).
Wash garments or w/o wash (if then washing details).
Print details including dimension & placement. Such as pigment/rubber/flock/foil
etc (if any).
Embroidery details (Normal stitch, appliqué, Badge etc, if any).
Test requirement details (Azo or any others, if any).
Order qty, if possible color wise (Approximately).
Maximum body color (Approximately).
Size wise qty ratio (%) = S/? %, M/? %, L/ ? % etc.
Stripe repetition details with color (for yarn dyed).
Viscose percentage for Grey mélange & Polyester percentage for cvc or pc
Probable delivery date.
47. The Confirming Order after Merchandiser Do Some Work:-
Confirming price is meant to confirm the order. And this is the third stage on which a
merchandiser works. Firstly he is to do the followings:
Time and action planning: Before starting the bulk production preparing time and
action calendar is the most important work. How they set up their line. for
maximum production and which method they will use for maintaining the lead
time.
Prepare Gantt chart: Gantt chart is the consequence of time and action planning.
To maintain the time and action planning preparing the Gantt chart is very
necessary for a merchandiser.
Receiving color standard: Matching color standard in accordance with the buyers
requirement. And for this reasons receiving color standard is an important task.
Submission of lab dip: For fixing color standard lab dip plays a vital role in this
case. So for lab dip test submission is much necessary.
Development of printing and embroidery: If there is requirement of printing and
embroidery the development of printing and embroidery should be going on along
with the bulk production.
Booking of yarn fabrics, yarn and accessories: Before going to the bulk
production booking of yarn fabrics, and accessories are a pre- requisite for a
merchandiser to be performed.
Receiving of master LC: Arranging all things above by this time master LC will
be reached to the bank and receiving the master LC from the commercial manager
is one of the responsibilities of a merchandiser.
Opening of Back to Back LC: Being received master LC opening back to back
LC is more necessary. Otherwise, bulk production may be hampered for not storing
the goods on by the suppliers.
47.1. Follow Up all Sections:
Last of all a merchandiser should go for the next stage that is running order. It is only
following up all the sections. For the continuation of running order he is to firstly follow:
1. Follow T & A calendar: which is prepared in the third stage for smoothly running the
bulk production.
2. Follow Gantt chart: His second responsibilities in this stage are to follow up Gantt
chart.
3. Follow up the fabrics, dye lot, shade for woven and blanket for denim. Then he will
4. For knit composite factory he is to follow up yarn sourcing, yarn dyeing, knitting
program, dyeing program.
5. He is to follow up printing, embroidery and washing.
6. Follow up cutting, sewing and finishing.
7. Arrange all samples: After getting production he is to arrange all samples.
8. Arrange all lab tests.
9. Arrange all inspections.
10. Ensure shipment of garments on time.
47.2. MERCHANDISING PROCESS FLOW
Merchandiser
Negotiation with buyer
Export order collect
Costing of accessories
Send to the buyer
If ok then sample making (according to buyer requirement)
Get approval
Go to production
In-house of accessories
Line balancing
Production continuing (follow up)
Inspection of the produced garments
Assembling with polybag, carton etc.
Preparation of banking
Shipment / Delivery
47.3. Negotiation (Price) Process and Ending of Negotiation as following:
Arrange a meeting
Show the price to buyer
Buyer asked about high price
Arguments about high price with buyer
Buyer show the new price
Make win situation
Fixed price
Placed a new order
Ending the negotiation by dinner
48. Process for Implementing Merchandise Plans:
Information is gathered about target market needs and prospective suppliers.
The retailer chooses firm-owned, outside, regularly used and/or new supply sources
of merchandise.
The merchandise under consideration is evaluated through inspection, sampling
and/or description.
Purchase terms are set. They may have to be negotiated in their entirety or through
uniform contracts.
The purchase conclusion is made-manually or automatically.
Merchandise handling decisions are taken relating to receiving & storing, price &
inventory marking, displays, pilferage control etc.
Reordering decisions are made.
Garment merchandising process starts once the order / fabric commitment is received and the
product development department hands over the file to production merchandiser and ends
when the goods reach the buyers. The entire cycle involves all activities directly or indirectly
related to procuring of materials, planning and monitoring of the order. A brief outline of the
procedure is as below:
48.1. Receipt of Order:
Receipt of an order means final confirmation of the order from the buyer. Since, this is the
final confirmation it is done by means of a legal document called a PO (purchase order) or an
FC (fabric commitment).
48.2. PO (purchase order) –
This is a legal document stating the quantity, delivery, price, style no, buyer, vendor details.
On receipt of a PO it is very important that the merchandiser checks all details and confirms
PREPARE
DETAILED T&A
FABRIC ORDERING FIT CYCLETRIM ORDERING
FABRIC PO,
PI, LC
PILOT YARDAGE IN-
HOUSE
INSPECTION
SHRINKAGE TEST
BULK IN-HOUSE
INSPECTION
TEST REPORTS
TRIM PO,
PI
BULK IN-HOUSE
INSPECTION
TEST REPORTS
FIT
APPROVAL
SIZE SET &
SEALER SAMPLE
APPROVAL
PRE-PRODUCTION MEETING
ALL DEPARTMENTS
ADVISED OF THE
T&A
RECEIPT OF ORDER
PILOT RUN APPROVAL
BULK
CUTTING
SEWING
FINISHING
PACKING
FINAL AUDIT
SHIPMENT OF GOODS
AUDITS DONE AT
VARIOUS STAGES
OF PRODUCTION,
TOP/PRS
SAMPLES SENT
TO BUYER AS PER
REQUIREMENTS.
PREPARE
DETAILED T&A
FABRIC ORDERING FIT CYCLETRIM ORDERING
FABRIC PO,
PI, LC
PILOT YARDAGE IN-
HOUSE
INSPECTION
SHRINKAGE TEST
BULK IN-HOUSE
INSPECTION
TEST REPORTS
TRIM PO,
PI
BULK IN-HOUSE
INSPECTION
TEST REPORTS
FIT
APPROVAL
SIZE SET &
SEALER SAMPLE
APPROVAL
PRE-PRODUCTION MEETING
ALL DEPARTMENTS
ADVISED OF THE
T&A
RECEIPT OF ORDER
PILOT RUN APPROVAL
BULK
CUTTING
SEWING
FINISHING
PACKING
FINAL AUDIT
SHIPMENT OF GOODS
AUDITS DONE AT
VARIOUS STAGES
OF PRODUCTION,
TOP/PRS
SAMPLES SENT
TO BUYER AS PER
REQUIREMENTS.
that they are correct like – quantity, delivery date, and price, style no, style description, color
no & reference if mentioned, shipment mode, shipment port, vendor address, buyer address.
48.3. FC (fabric commitment) –
fabric commitment is a legal document confirming that the buyer will be buying the said
quantity of a particular fabric. A garment style no need not be mentioned on this document as
it is a commitment only for buying fabric. This kind of a legal document is used by the buyer
when there are very probable chances of change in the style or the same fabric is being used
in a number of styles and the buyer has still not decided on the quantity to be purchased in
each of the styles. Hence in such a situation the buyer gives a block booking for fabric.
Once the order is received four different activities are started off simultaneously. These
activities are – preparing a detailed T&A, Fabric Ordering, Trim Ordering, fit cycle and
sample approvals.
48.4. Time & Action plan (T&A) Preparations.
Time & Action planning is a process which will help you to focus your ideas and to decide
what steps you need to take to achieve particular goals that you may have. It is a statement of
what you went to achieve over a given period of time. An effective action plan should give
you a concrete timetable and set of clearly defined steps to help you to reach your target. Ina
garments factory time & action plan maintained by executive summary which is done and
follow up by merchant. Actually T&A start at the time of buyer proposed projection.
According to garments projection factory merchandiser give projection of fabric and all trims
to relevant supplier. So we can understand that T&A start before the production.
In brief we can say that according to T&A we will allocate our production line for any
particular style. By this we have clear idea about fabric and trims booking their production
lead time & in house date. So by proper T&A we can successfully run our allocated line for
each style to hit the accurate TOD.
48.5. According to T&A we will do our work according to below time schedule:-
Fabrics booking will be done with in 4th
Jan both foreign & local. Supplier will start
production of fabrics.
We will ask for sample fabrics for size set samples at 10th
Jan with available color but with
actual construction. Because, construction is related with fabrics shrinkage, which effect fit or
size measurement of a garment.
They will ask for counter samples & in house test fabrics at 24th
Jan. We will take all
accessories approval before order placing just after projection.
We also complete all foreign accessories booking with in 5th
Jan we will take 40% of sewing
foreign accessories & 10% of finishing foreign Accessories by air with in 14th
Jan. Rest of all
qty by sea.
We will first start production with local fabrics than after foreign fabrics in-house, we will
minimize local fabrics line & start foreign fabrics line at full speed.
48.6. Fabric Ordering:
This activity involves ordering of fabric with the mill. The important points to be taken care
of during this activity are: Accurate computation of the requirement. This is essential to
ensure that during bulk production the materials do not fall short nor are they in access and
there are leftovers after the order is shipped. An accurate calculation of material requirement
can be done if the BOM (bill of materials) as provided by the buyer in the specification sheet
is studied thoroughly. Apart from just ensuring that the quantity is correct the BOM also
helps in checking that all materials required in completion of the order are ordered and
nothing has been missed out. Selecting the best vendor for the materials in terms of quality,
price and delivery
48.7. Payment Term:
The fabric order is places by the merchandiser by means of a purchase order. The purchase
order should list down the following very clearly –
Name & Reference no of the article.
Quality description of the article.
Quantity.
Price.
Delivery date.
Quality parameters as required by the buyer.
Payment terms.
Pilot yardage requirements if any.
The mill sends a PI (Performa invoice) confirming the details as mentioned in the PO. In case
of any changes required in the PO the same are also mentioned in the PI. The mill also
provides its bank details on the PI so that the factory can work out the payments. There can
be various kinds of payment term agreements between the buying and the selling parties as
below –
Some percent of payment in advance, the balance at sight – example, 20% advance, 80%
at sight. This means that 20% of the total value of goods is paid in advance, the balance
80% is pain once the goods are received by the buyer (factory). This payment can be done
by means of DD (demand draft), cheque or TT (telegraphic transfer)
LC (letter of credit) – in this payment mode the banks of both parties are involved. The
buying party (factory in case of fabric) opens up a LC with its bank and the same is
transferred to the mills bank. On acceptance of the LC by the mills bank, this becomes a
legal contract between the two parties. Once the goods are dispatched the mill submits the
dispatch details (Invoice, packing list and Air way bill details) in its bank and gets the
payment for the goods. The mills bank then approaches the factories bank and gets its
payment from the same. The factories bank then gets the payment from the factory. The
LC once made, a copy of the same should be called in by the merchandiser and studied to
make sure all details as mentioned are correct. The details to be looked at are:
Name & Reference no of the article.
Quality description of the article.
Quantity.
Price.
Delivery date.
LC expiry date.
It is a similar process as done for the fabric is done for trims except for pilot trims. The
factory can call in trims for sampling and these are called as PROMO TRIMS.
49. Sampling:
Sample making is one of the most important activities in the garment manufacturing process.
The manufacturer always needs at least a sketch of the garment, original patterns,
specification and the designer‟s sample to make high quality sample garments at the
contractor‟s factories. Garments factories are used different name used for different types of
samples. In the sample departments of garment factories different type of sample are made
for different purposes.
Proto Sample.
Approval Sample.
Fit Sample.
Size set Sample.
Reference Sample.
Offer Sample.
Salesman Sample.
Photo Sample.
Pre-Production Sample.
Production sample.
Shipment Sample.
49.1. Proto Sample:
Proto sample is the initial sample made by the manufacturer as per as the details of the
export order, and send to the buyer, to check whether the styling of the garment is ok as per
the requirement of the buyer. Proto Sample can be made in alternative fabric & accessories,
which is not with the original fabric and accessories. That is as per the sketch & space in the
production order (P.O) sheet).
49.2. Approval sample:
The manufacturing must produce sample prior to communication of the mass scale
production of a particular style. The number of samples required, vary from buyer to buyer.
Most of the time buyers ask for 3-5 samples from the manufacturer. When constructing these
samples the manufacture‟s instruction should be followed.
49.3. Fit approval samples:
The original patterns, original sample & the specification are required to produce these
samples. After constructing these samples manufacturer should send them to the buyer or to
the agents to get the approval for the mass production. There are two main types of approval
samples and they are known as:
49.4. Size series samples:
When an order is placed and confirmed, the manufacturer has to produce samples for the
buyer. The required size of the samples is generally given by the buyer. If the size of samples
is not given the middle size of the order range is taken as the appropriate size. That is if an
order is given for a range of sizes, then the sample garment is made from the middle size. The
samples produce for the given size or the middle sizes of the order are known as fit approval
samples.
Once fit approval samples are approved by the buyers, request for samples in all the sizes of
the order before the mass production starts. Then they are in a position to see the quality of
the samples of all size of the order. These samples are known as size series samples. Even if
there is no such request from the buyer, it is batter to produce to size series samples for use
within the factory. Then they can identify the problem that might occur, when they produce
different size in the mass production.
49.5. Fit Sample:
Fit Sample is made by the manufacture (exporter) and sends to the buyer, to check if the
fittings of the garments are ok or not as per the requirement of the Buyer. Unusually the Fit
sample is made in alternative Fabric & accessories & it is made, which ever comes at the
middle of the export order sizes. For example: If the export order sizes are, S, M&L, the Fit
Sample will be in M size.
49.6. Size Set Sample:
Size set sample contains all the size of the export order contains sizes small, medium, large
size. Then the size set is sample will contain all the size, the sample S are made by grading
the M size sample. Alternative fabric & accessories can make this Sample.
49.7. PP Sample (Pre-Production sample):
Original fabric & Accessories make PP Sample, and this sample is made just before the Bulk
production. This sample represents the original garment to be made in Bulk production. The
buyer checks the PP samples & after the Buyer gives approval on PP sample, and then only
the manufacture goes for bulk production of the export order. PP sample should include all
the colors of the style.
49.8. Production Sample:
Production Sample is taken from production unit, by the bulk production is continuing,
production sample represents the original production pieces to be exported to Buyer. Usually
the exporter send production sample to Buyer once only, during the Bulk production, But in
some cases where the export order quantity is large enough for single style for example in
case of Buyer – Wal-Mart,
The production samples were sent three times during the Bulk production. First Sample sent
during 20% to 30% of Bulk production. Second fit sample sent during 50% to 60% of Bulk
production and third production sample sent during 70% to 80% of Bulk Production.
49.9. Reference sample:
Reference purpose when produce the extra sample is called reference sample. When we
produce the approval sample then we have to produce an extra sample for reference purposes
in the factory, Reference sample is also called keep sample. After getting the approval from
buyer, the reference sample can be released for mass production.
When releasing the reference sample for mass production all this comment made by agents
and or by the buyer must be attached clearly to the reference samples. The sample kept in the
sample department until getting the approval from the buyers after inspecting the approval
samples.
49.10. Offer Samples:
If the factory wants to attract new buyers, they have to be won by showing samples of
garments that the manufacturer can offer. For this purpose they produce on their own,
samples of new designs. These samples are known as offer samples. The ultimate objective of
producing these offer samples is to attract new buyers to find new markets.
49.11. Shipment Sample:
This Sample the manufacture keeps with them, covering all sizes & colors of the style of
garments they exported. It is for the reference pieces, just to keep record for future reference.
49.12. Production Sampling:
Production goes through different kind of stapes. It needs many quality checking and
approval to be perfect. The steps are defined below.
50. Sample approval:
While fabric and trim ordering is happening, simultaneously the sample approval procedure
is also underway. The moment a style is selected it goes to the tech department for fitting.
Here models wear the samples and they are evaluated in terms of fit, construction,
measurement. The buyer then sends out comments, which are called as fit comments. In case
another sample is requested the factory makes the same incorporating the comments and send
again to buyer. This process is called fit cycle. Different customers have different no of fit
cycles.
50.1. PP Sample:
Once the fit sample is approved the factory makes a PP (Pre-production) sample. This can be
called by different names such as sealer sample, green tag sample etc. This sample is sent out
the buyer for final approval and once approved becomes the final sample on the basis of
which entire production is made and audited. This is the most important sample and one
should take care that everything on this sample is correct as this then becomes the standard.
50.2. Size set:
Once PP sample is approved the next step is to make a SIZE SET. All the fit samples and the
PP samples are in the medium size, now the medium size is graded into the different sizes as
per the purchase order. The basic purpose of size set is to ensure that grading between sizes is
correct.
50.3. Pre-Production meeting:
In this meeting everybody concerned with the style sits together to make sure that everybody
is on the same page and understands the product. Hence, this meeting has the merchandiser,
production in-charge, cutting, finishing, fabric in-charge, line supervisor, pattern master,
sample master etc. All tentative problems are discussed and solutions sought to execute the
order smoothly.
50.4. Final audit:
This is the last checkpoint before shipment. All aspects (packing, packaging, measurement,
construction & visuals) are evaluated. Once the garments adhere to the required quality
standards in all the parameters the shipment is passed and then the shipment is moved to thee
logistic team.
Now the merchandiser interacts with the logistic department, takes the shipment schedule and
sends the same to the customer.
51. Merchandising Season:
The overall operation of a company has fixed a cycle which is dictated by the unchanging
sequence and durations that is called seasons.
For clothing manufacturers, this means that certain deadlines have to be met if
merchandise is to reach retailers at the right time to meet the seasonal demands of the
general public.
51.1. Types of Merchandising Season:
For many years, most of the clothing industry worked on three-phase year which covered
four seasons as follows:
Phase-1: Spring merchandise.
Phase-2: Summer merchandise.
Phase-3: Combined Autumn & Winter merchandise.
52. Basic knowledge of Work Study:
Observed time:
It is the time taken by the operator to operator complete his her job as observer d time by
work-study officer.
Basic time:
It is the time taken by the operator to operator complete his or her job had she or he
worked at 100% performance.
Allowance time:
It is the time allowed to an operator for non performing task such as going to laboratory,
rest, changing needle, taking instruction of supervisor etc.
Relaxation allowance:
It is the time allowed to an operator to attend to personal need.
Contingency allowance:
It is the time allowed to the operator when uncertain problem occur.
Machine delay allowance:
It is the time allowed to an operator for delay due to machine maintenance.
Style change allowance:
It is the time allowed to the operator where frequently style change occurs.
Special allowance:
It is the time allowed to an operator for startup time, shut down, cleaning etc.
Standard time:
It is the time required by operator to complete a job had she worked at 100% rating plus
allowance time.
Bottleneck time:
It is the highest time taken by an operator compared to other operator‟s time, generally it
is the time beyond the U.C.L.
Rating
Rating is a speed of a qualified worker.
Organization efficiency
It is the efficiency of the production time.
Basic work content:
It is the time contents the work without any undue loss of time.
Work count:
It is the time value required by operation.
Ineffective time:
It is the time means time loss due to different design fault, production fault, finishing fault
etc.
Upper control limit:
Upper control limit is the time limit represents efficiency.
Lower control limit:
Lower control limit is the time limit representing 115% efficiency.
Pitch time:
Pitch time is the time taken by operator on average or Industrial operator‟s time shown on
the pitch diagram is called pitch time.
53. Work study is the most accurate method of setting Standard of performance upon
which effective planning and production control relies upon.
Production calculation formula:
BPT (Basic Pitch Time) = Total standard time÷ No of operator
UCL (Upper Control Limit) = Basic pitch time÷ 0.85
LCL (Lower Control Limit) = 2×BPT-UCL
Organization Efficiency = BPT÷ Highest bottleneck time×100
Productivity = per hour production ÷ Total operator
Production Target = (No of operator×3600) ×85% ÷ Total standard time
Actual production = 3600÷Height bottleneck time
53.1. Work study method comprises eight steps, which are given below:-
Select: Select the job to be investigated.
Record: record data by collecting organization by direct observation.
Examine: Examine data critically; what is the purpose of action, where is the place of
performing it, the sequence in which the job is done, the person doing the job etc.
Develop: Develop the easiest & the most economic methods.
Evaluate: Evaluate the results of alternatives ways of doing the job.
Define: Define new method & time & present them to the concerned people.
Install: Install new method & train persons to apply them.
Maintain: Maintain new standard practice & set control procedures.
53.2. Why bottleneck time created:
The operator has not the right skill.
The operator makes more rejects & rework takes time.
The machine is definite.
The operator is not following work standard.
The operator is not motivated etc.
53.3. How to eliminate the bottleneck time:
By using automatic organization high performance machine.
By mechanizing the relevant processes.
By using better tools, folder, special work aids etc.
By allotting the bottle process between more than the operator.
By improving operator skill/ speed.
By using addition machinery/ operator etc.
54. Basic qualifications should have the Merchandisers.
Good command in English and adequate knowledge of technical terms for accurate and
efficient communication.
Good knowledge of fiber, yarn, fabric, dyeing, printing, finishing, dyes, colorfastness and
garments production etc.
Clear conception of the usual potential quality problem in apparel merchandising.
Good knowledge of the usual raw materials, raw materials inspection system and apparel
inspection system.
Knowledge of the buyer‟s compliance and various standards.
Knowledge of the quota system, free-trade, shipping and banking documentation.
55. Main function of a Merchandiser to execute an order perfectly on time (schedule):
Fabric requirement calculation (consumption, YPD).
Accessories requirement, calculation.
Sourcing of fabrics.
Sourcing of accessories.
Possible date of arrival of fabrics and accessories.
Costing.
Garment analysis and production planning.
Performa making, swatch making and distribution to the production unit and quality
concern people.
Pre-shipment inspection schedule.
Arranging shipping documents and final inspection.
56. Sending Quality Sample to the New Buyer for Better Understanding:
When the quality sample is sending to the new buyer for better understanding there are some
process should be followed for convince the buyer easily as a result the buyer will attract to
the quality sample. When you will send the quality sample to the new buyer always you
should keep in mind that it should be maintain professionalism and presentable. The format
may be followed
Quality sample
Ironing properly
Checking quality points
List of the defects
Attracting packaging
Well decorated
Maintain professionalism & workmanship
56.1. Sampling Procedure:
Order from buyer
Sourcing the fabric & accessories for making garments
woven (sample only)
Cutting
Sewing
Iron
Quality control
Pre check form
Buyer Q C
Forwarding from the merchandiser
Sample sending to the buyer
20.2. Approval produces of sales samples:
Seal sample means to gain the approval from buyer before going to the bulk production.
Without seal sample can‟t go production. In order to achieve seal sample from the buyer you
should have followed some professionalism so that the buyer easily can give you seal. In
order to get seal sample from the buyer the following format may be followed-
Quality sample for better understanding
Sending development sample
Sending fitting sample
Maintain quality
Maintain professionalism & beauty
57. Merchandising Procedure to Execute an Order:
If all Merchandiser used to follow the below Work-Flow chart then it would be easier for
them to keep control over his/her order from 1st day to the shipment of his/her orders.
Need to Receive Product Package to do Preliminary Costing.
Sampling to Confirm Order.
Price Confirmation.
Oder Confirmation.
Purchase Order (PO) Received, Analysis and Distribution to Respective Departments.
Need to Receive Color Standard.
Issue Pro-Forma Invoice to Get Export L/C And Export L/C Check Properly & Hand
Over to Commercial Department to Proceed for Execution Prepare CPS or TNA.
After Negotiation Fabrics & Accessories Price Need to Make Detail Pre Costing for BTB
Approval
Samples Fabric Accessories Commercial works
Proto/Initial/Counter
Making & Approval
Yarn/Fabrics
Suppliers Source &
Price Negotiation
List of Accessories
With Requirements
Sales Man Samples
Fabrics If Required
Lab Dip Submission
& Approval
Supplier Source &
Price Negotiation
Arrange P/I for &
Accessories
Red Seal/Fit/Size Set
L/Making& Approval
Fabrics Booking for
PPS & Quality
Approval
Accessories Booking,
Order &
Development
Collect Copy of BTB
Photo Sample Bulk Yarn/Fabrics
Requirement
Quality Approval Packing List &
Invoice
If Required Booking & Order All Accessories Prepare
PPS (Pre-Production
system)
Shade & Quality Bulk Accessories Follow Up Of
Export
Making & Approval
Process
Approval of Bulk
Fabrics
In House Document
Productions/Set
Sample Making
&Approval
Shade Band/Dye Lot
Approval
Trim Card Prepare
For Approval
Wash Test Sample Bulk Fabrics In
House
Trim Card Prepare
For Production
Gold Seal/Shipment Bulk Fabrics Wash
Test Approval
Poly & Carton Order
Color Way Swatch
Board Making
Poly & Carton In
House
If order is with Print/Wash/Embroidery/Other Embellishment sample have to develop with all
attachment. Before sample development separate strike off have to development to get
Color/Quality of Print/Embroidery/Other Embellishment and have to develop Wash Effect to
get approval before making samples to save time.
58. Buyer Approval Procedure of Fabrics, Color &Accessories by Supplier:
If supplier get all samples of raw material are as per his requirement then he gives the
approval. Supply chain department collects all raw materials as per buyer requirement. All
approval getting procedure are done by the merchandiser all accessories and farcies must be
approved by buyer. For color checking Lab dip will be prepared and get approval from buyer.
After getting all approval supply chain department give order to the suppliers and after stored
all the raw materials a trims card is prepared which consist all kinds of raw materials going to
used in the product as per buyer requirement. This trim card is also need to approve by buyer
so that production can be started. All type of approval procedure done by the merchandising
department.
59. Master LC Checking Procedure:
Buyer send a master LC copy to the industry and merchandising department send it to the
commercial department so that they can check all the terms and condition included in Master
LC. Without checking it, it is not possible to accept Master LC because may be there some
terms and condition will not match with the industry rules or capability that‟s why following
thinks should be checked carefully.
60. ML/C Confirmation Procedure:
After checking if anything required to change then merchandiser inform the buyer that some
correction should be added in the LC format and buyer correct those things and again
rechecked by the commercial department. If found everything of then merchandiser confirm
the buyer about the LC and accept it.
61. Merchandiser should be know some important terms
Some important abbreviation for merchandising dpt. & RMG sector are as below:
RMG: Readymade Garments.
T&P Time Action Plain
AM: Assistant Merchandiser.
M: Merchandiser.
SM: Senior Merchandiser.
MM: Merchandise Manager.
RPM: Rotation per mint.
FCR: Cost and Freight.
C&F: Clearing and Forwarding.
CIF: Cost and Freight
LC: Latter of Credit.
AQL: Acceptable Quality Label.
QC: Quality Controller.
CM/OM: Country Manger/Office Manager.
CM: Cost of Manufacturing.
CMT: Cost of Manufacturing with Trims.
GOH: Garments on Hanger.
FPC: Flat Packing container
FOB: Free on Board.
EPB: Export Processing Bureau.
Container.
ETA: Expected Time of Arrival.
ETD: Expected Time of Departure.
GSP: Generalized system of preference.
PSI: Pre shipment Inspection.
IC: Inspection certificate.
DDP: Delivery duty paid.
HAWB: House Airway Bill.
MAWB: Master Airway Bill.
BL: Bill of Lading.
POD: Port of Delivery.
DDU: Delivery duty unpaid.
FEU: Forty feet equivalent.
TEU: Twenty feet equivalent.
LCL: Lace container load/light.
POL: Port of Loading.
MOS: Margin of Safety.
IE: Industrial Engineer.
SPI: Stitch per inch.
FCL: Full container Load.
CO: Country of origin.
M.V: Mother Vessel.
62. Steps of Negotiation between Merchandiser & Supplier:
The collect information of suppliers from data bank of suppliers.
Asking for samples at last from five suppliers.
Approval of samples and conformation.
Asking for price from at least 3 suppliers.
To prepare comparative statement /C S.
To invite suppliers for price negotiation.
To conform price to supplier through email.
To Purchase Order (P.O) to supplier.
Receiving P.I from supplier.
To open B/B L/C
Approve.okn
62.1. Negotiation Process:
After getting the proper sourcing the material/store room management department is arranged a
meeting to the supplier that‟s call negotiation process meeting. In this meeting talk to the
supplier some factors this are very important. Given below some factors name-
01. Lead time.
02. Delivery in time.
03. Quantity.
04. Shipment date.
62.2. Price Negotiation Procedure with Different Suppliers:
Arrange meeting with different suppliers.
Collect price different suppliers
Select some price
Argument with selected suppliers
Win Win situation
Fixed price
Order to supplier
62.3. Those items are included in P.O. This are-
Order quantity.
Product description.
Size breakdown.
Supplier bank address.
Buyer details.
Country of origin.
Payment terms.
Carton marks.
Fabric construction.
Care label instruction.
Port of loading.
62.4. P/I Collection Procedure from Supplies and Checking of P.I:
After getting P.O from garment industry than supplier issue a P.I to merchandiser. This P.I sends
by e-mail or DSL to the merchandiser. As like this way collect P.I from supplier.
The checking procedure of P.I
62.5. PI Sheet and Its Items:
In foreign trade transaction, a reformat invoice is a documents that states a commitment from the
seller to reserve some goods to be sold to a certain person, the buyer. the buyer places an order
and if the seller agrees, it extend a reformat invoice and agrees to all the terms specified in it, the
goods are send and the reformat is replaced by a commercial invoice.
What are the items will include in this sheet are-
Top part:
Name and address of seller
Invoice number and date.
Buyer name and address.
Body/middle part:
Product description.
Unit price.
Total price.
Bottom part:
Shipment date.
Shipment terms FOB or C&F.
Country of origin.
Terms of payment, at sight or 120 days.
Others special terms.
62.6. Daily Production Report from the Supplier & Monitoring:
Daily production report is very important while production going on without daily production
report the improvement of the working can‟t measurement on the basis of this report production
is calculated how much time will require to complete the order and follow according to the plan
the progress of the present status. Given below a daily production report chart for better
understanding
62.7. Preparation of Shipping Sample and Sending To Buyer:
Shipment Sample:
This sample contains all size & all colors & style were exported to Buyer. These samples are
reference, the manufacture with him for his record. In needed for future reference, if any claim
comes from Buyer
When the shipping sample is sending to the buyer it should me very presentable and attractive so
the buyer is addicted at a first glance.
62.8. Investigation to Third Party like SGS, ITS for Final Inspection:
In order to check the quality of the apparel third party inspection also important, Before going to
the third party inspection at first stage buyer is inspect the quality of the apparel by their own
quality controller if, the inform the buyer this apparel has not fulfill to the quality of the
expectation levels then the supplier and the buyer will agree to go the third party inspection team
to inspect the quality the third party is invite like SGS, IT etc
62.9. Trim Card Preparation.
What kinds of fabric and accessories are required for making garments according to buyer tech
pack? All kinds of fabric and accessories care label color, shade, yarn, count, button, zipper etc is
submitted to card that‟s call trim card. Without approval of trim card production can‟t run. For
better understanding in the appendix I have submitted a trim card for better understanding.
63. Collection of All Relevant Documents From Different Companies And Organizations
Like GSP, CO, etc.:
63.1. GSP:
GSP means general system of preference. GSP is a certificate which save the purpose of country
of origin and get duty or reduced duty. This certificate issued by the export promotion bureau.
The are some rules applied to issue this certificate and this rules vary from country to country.
Some country insists that local components of the export products must be more than certain
percentage etc. This certificate accompany with export to enable the importer claims duty
concession from his local customs authority. It is a common demand of customs authorities in
EU.
63.2. CO:
The certificate of origin is a document that is required in certain nations. It is a sign statement to
the origin of the export items. Certificate of origin are usually signed through a semiofficial
organizations such as local chamber of commerce
63.3. Preparation of Commercial Invoice
An invoice is a commercial documents issued by a seller to a buyer, indicating the products the
quantity and description of the goods the loading port and destination port the mode of
transportation the country of origin the price per unit and total cost of the goods with which the
seller has already provided by the buyer. An invoice indicates that payments is due form the
buyer to the seller according to payments terms the shipper gets the invoice ready at the time the
goods are being is prepared for shipping.
63.4. Master L/C:
A documentary master L/C is an orderly payments security instruments offering high quality of
payment security to a business transaction for both parties the seller and buyer. The seller will
receive payments for his goods if he meets all conditions preserve by the letter of credit. Without
master L/C opening the order won‟t be conformed so its carry more value than other documents
in export and import business.
63.5. Forwarding Agents:
Persons, who are employed to collect, deliver and otherwise forward goods on behalf of others
are called forwarding agents. With the expansion of business, many manufactures use forwarding
agents who would relieve the manufacturers from the troubles of collecting goods from suppliers
and delivering goods to the destination
63.6. Documentation Submission Procedure to the Bank:
Local document:
01. Bill of exchange.
02. Invoice.
03. Packing list.
04. co/ delivery challan / truck challan
05. Good production certificate (BTMA) original copy.
06. GP2 challan
Foreign documents:
01. Bill of exchange.
02. Invoice.
03. Packing list.
04. Bill of lading.
05. GSP/CO/Inspection certificate.
63.7. Documentation for Opening L/C:
For opening L/C the bank will provide the following things
L/C application form.
IMP form (import permission form).
Agreement form.
Guarantee form
Have to fill up the forms mentioned above and after verifying and signing the following
documents should be submitted to the bank.
Trade license (valid).
IRC (import Registration certificate).
Membership certificate.
Memorandum of association.
Income tax declaration.
A photograph
63.8. Bill of Lading:
It is a document issued by a carrier (railroad, steamship or trucking company), which serves as a
receipt for the goods to be delivered to a designated person or to his order. The bill of lading
describes the conditions under which the goods are accepted by the carrier and details the nature
and quantity of the goods, name of vessel (if shipped by sea), identifying marks and numbers,
destination, etc. The person sending the goods is the "shipper" or "consignor," the company or
agent transporting the goods is the "carrier", and the person for whom the goods are destined is
the "consignee". If negotiable, i.e., payable to the shipper‟s order and properly endorsed, title to
the goods passes upon delivery of the bill of lading.
A traditional bill of lading has a threefold purpose
Formal receipt by the ship owner for goods.
Evidence of the contract of carriage.
Document of title to goods.
63.9. Insurance Documents:
The critical points worth observing are:
The extent of the cover agrees precisely with the credit terms, bearing in mind that Institute.
Cargo Clauses (All Risks) do not always cover special risks.
The date of the insurance document is not later than the shipment date or, if dated after
shipment, it bears a clause to the effect that cover commences not later than the date of
shipment.
Claims are payable in the place specified in the credit.
The amount payable is in accordance with the credit terms plus any specified percentage and
is in the currency of the credit.
Marks, weights and description of the goods agree with the bill of lading and all other
documents.
The policy or certificate required by the credit terms is signed by the insurance company,
agents or underwriters and endorsed as necessary.
63.10. Invoice:
A business document that contains the names and addresses of the buyer and the seller, the date
and terms of the sale, a description of the goods, the price of the goods, and the mode of
transportation used to ship the goods. The seller calls the invoice a sales invoice; the buyer calls
it a purchase invoice. The critical points worth noting are:
These should have been completed by the seller in the name of the buyer/ importer unless the
credit specifies otherwise.
Totals of all invoices agree with the amount of the drawing.
Prices and shipment terms (FOB and CIF etc) agree with the credit.
If a combined invoice and certificate of origin is called for, the certificate of origin is duly
completed and signed.
The full and exact description of the goods as shown on the credit appears on the invoice and
that the quantity and specifications are as called for. If goods are described as being “...... in
accordance with pro forma invoice number ...... dated ......” this can reduce superfluous,
error-producing detail.
There are no additional goods, charges or deductions not authorized in the credit. However, a
deduction of normal trade discount is allowed as long as the final amount is correct – neither
overdrawn nor under drawn.
If both an invoice and a packing list are called for, no “combined invoice and packing list”
should be offered. An appropriately detailed extra invoice may often satisfy the packing list
need, if suitably headed.
Pro forma invoice numbers or reference numbers are required by the credit is shown.
Marks and weights (net unless the credit states otherwise), number of cases and name of
vessel agree with the bill of lading and other documents.
63.11. Certificate of Origin.
A certificate stating the country, in which a commodity has been grown, milled, produced,
manufactured or assembled, issued by a Consular Office or a Chamber of Commerce. Frequently
used by customs of importing countries in ascertaining duties under preferential tariff programs
or in connection with regulating imports from specific sources. The critical points worth noting
are:
All details quoted, shipping marks and description of goods, agree with the Letter of Credit,
bill of lading and other documents.
The certificate does not conflict with other documents with regard to value and country of
origin.
64. Order Confirmation Documents.
Copy of master L/C or received of this documentation from the buyer, the exporters become
sure that they would obtain foreign currency after the perches shipment.
Contract sheet
Sing by buyer and vender (2 pages)
Style number.
Shipment date.
Mode of shipment (sea/air).
Order quantity and size ratio.
Fabric description.
Labels etc.
Product package
10- 15 page.
Spec sheet.
Stitch & seam type.
Position of levels, taken tag, price ticker.
Sketches partly of each garment.
Trim card with approval
Swatch card.
Import Documents.
Proforma invoice> Total requirement, how many fabric, trims.
Commercial invoice > Fabric unit price, trim unit price.
Packing list > How many roles Break down each fabric roles.
UP (utilization permission) > given from the government.
PSI certificate/ pre-shipment inspection (if necessary).
Documentation on Receipt of the Material at the Factory:
Inventory report > from store manager.
Fabric and accessories swatch (actual).
Documentation during Production:
Daily production report.
Daily quality report.
Daily production report DUPRO.
Export Documentation.
Packing list.
IC (inspection certificate) Buyer QC team.
Bill at leading {(B/L) sea} Collect from ship.
Air way bill (air).
Certificate of origin Collect from custom.
Packing List/ Weight Note:
This document itemizes shipment contents. It should include weight (gross and net), dimensions,
contents, numbering of each parcel within the shipment, and any identifying characteristics (e.g.,
serial numbers). While importing fabric, packing list can play an important role in shade wise
segregating fabric rolls, if the rolls have been packed in bales according to their shade lots. It
also can be used to identify damages or shortages; the buyer only pays duty on what was actually
received. The critical points worth noting are:
It must bear an authorized signature of the person/firm/company issuing the certificate in the
detail required.
If a weight list is called for by the credit, this requires the individual weight of each parcel or
package together with the total weight.
Figure.
An example of packing list
Air Way Bill:
An air way bill accompanies goods in shipment and which details the cost and route of shipment.
The critical points worth noting are:
These should be issued and stamped by an airline on standard forms and should appear to be
the original for the shipper (usually copy 3). This shows: name of consignee, goods, which
must agree with the credit and all other documents, flight number and date, freight paid or to
be paid at destination (again, in accordance with the terms of the credit).
Ensure that the correct copy is submitted, bearing a clear reception stamp with signature of
the carrier or his agent.
Air waybills issued by freight forwarders and referred to a master air waybill are not
acceptable unless a certificate is presented stating that the forwarders are acting as agents for
the carriers.
ORDER ACHIVEMENT ANALYSES.
Once the order is shipped out of the factory a merchandiser has to submit a report called Order
clearance report. The report the report consists of following information related to the style or
order, which is shipped.
Material Utilization Report:
This is an analysis done on the materials ordered and utilized for the order. This essentially
contains information on the quantity we had ordered, the quantity which we could have utilized
and the actual utilization. An analysis like this done for every style would give necessary input
for MRP which would further help in effective material management and reducing costs. A copy
of such report is often sent to the business audit departments for monetary evaluation of
wastages.
Style and factory capability report:
The merchant keeps a track of the order when is loaded in the lines. This would give him/her the
date and time for loading and along with it the merchant also keeps the track of the order when it
comes out of the production lines completely. Using these and the data regarding the working
hours and manpower can give the style efficiency for the order in that production line. This
report helps in studying the capability of the factory with respect to different lines and gives
necessary directions to the marketing and planning teams for future orders. A report like this is
generally prepared by the Industrial engineering team, which later is submitted to the merchants
to complete his/her order clearance report.
65. Garments Costing :
65.1. Garment costing:
Garments costing refer to the all activities like purchase of raw materials, trims, and accessories,
processing and finishing of fabric, sewing and packing of garments, inspection, shipment,
overhead, banking charge etc.
65.2. Direct costing: which cost must needed for production
Such as –cost of raw materials, sewing cost etc.
65.3. Indirect cost: this cost refers to additional cost for production to increase production.
Such as-overheads coast, traveling cost, telephone cost etc.
65.4. Costing terminology: there are set pattern and guidelines by the industry. It is difficult to
find out costs for every process as there are some inbuilt costs while costing. A larger picture
has been taken into accounting while quoting the cost.
65.5. FAS –free alongside ship:
It is the cost of finished goods, its include the delivery of goods till port etc.
65.6. FOB- Free on board :
It is the cost of finished goods, its include the delivery of goods to port, loading onto the ship
plane etc. The cost doesn‟t included the shipping or any other costs incurred from that point on.
FOB-cost refers-raw materials coat +cost of making + transport and loading cost (till
ship)+profit%
65.7. C&F-cost and freight: this cost equals to FOB plus freight. In this method the exporter
bear the freight of goods to the importer
C&F- cost refer –FOB cost + freight cost/charge
65.8. CIF –cost insurance freight: it includes the cost of finished goods plus it includes the
delivery of the goods to the port, loading on the ship, shipping charge, all application
insurance fees along the way. The price does not include going through custom or any duties
or other incurred from the point.
CIF refer –C&F cost + insurance.
65.9. LDP- landed and duty paid: this is the cost of finished goods it‟s include delivery the
goods till port, cost of loading onto the ship, shipping, charge and the goods through the
custom with all applicable duties and taxes paid
65.10. Cost sheet preparation:
Style : USS11-60 Style : USS11-14
Gauge : 12GG Gauge : 7 GG
Yarn : 50/50 Acrylic /Cotton Yarn : 100 Cotton
Weight : 8.5 Lbs/Dzn Weight : 14 Lbs/Dzn
SL Description Amount SL Description Amount
1 Yarn (8.5*2.6)+10% $ 24.31 1 Yarn (14*2.20)+10% $ 33.88
2 Trims $ 3.50 2 Trims $ 3.50
3 Button $ 2.50 3 Button $ 2.50
4 Elastic $ 1.50 4 Elastic $ 1.50
5 CM $ 32.00 5 CM $ 24.00
6 Total $ 62.31 6 Total $ 65.38
7 Buying Comm. 5% $ 3.12 7 Buying Comm. 5% $ 3.27
8 Total $ 65.43 8 Total $ 68.65
FOB $ 5.45 FOB $ 5.72
Offer Price $ 5.60 Offer Price $ 5.85
65.11. Cost Sheet Analysis.
Materials: total amount of material × @ ($ 1) / yd = total price.
Trimming: button (BTN), thread (THD), interlining(int), level & packing.
Production pattern making, grading, marking, spreading and cutting.
Assembly and finishing: calculated the average time of operations.
Overhead cost: salary, rent, utilities > (30- 40%).
Freight: air freight / sea freight.
Quota change.
66. How to calculate fabric consumption in Woven & Knit Garments? 66.1. Knit Garments Fabric Consumption Formula
Clear concept on correct fabric consumption and costing is a primary requisite for a
merchandiser as fabric cost bears the 40% to 45% of the total cost of any garments.
To calculate the fabric consumption of knit garments we need following information:
a. Body length of the garment in cm. Suppose it is - 70 cm+5cm (Sewing allowance)=75cm
b. 1/2 Chest width in cm. Suppose it is 48 cm+2cm (Sewing allowance)=50cm
c. Sleeve length of the garment in cm. Suppose it is 20 cm+5cm (Sewing allowance)=25cm
d. Armhole circumference in cm. Suppose it is-40cm+2cm (Sewing allowance)=42cm
e. Fabric GSM. Suppose it is 180 gsm
f. Percentage of fabric wastage. Suppose it is 10%
***For consumption we have to consider the measurement of middle size garment or the
garment containing maximum quantity.
Basic consumption equation for knit garments:
66.2. For Woven Garments | Woven Shirt and Pant Consumption Calculation:
Fabric of any garment contains most values for their prices and consumption. To make a garment
fabric cost is almost 50% other than all cost. For any given FOB price the price of the fabric
contain significant role. Wastage of fabric is affected the garments cost other than all costs, so
consumption of fabric should be more or less similar to the actual requirement of fabric to make
any garment. Simply consumption shows how many fabrics is required to make garment. To get
more accuracy of any consumption merchandisers should follow the actual marker considering
all the sizes that we can get from CAD. Sometimes we need consumption to give quick costing
of any style to the respective buyers. Due to this reason we need just a concept that how many
fabrics we might be required for the garment. If you have to do this then you can follow the
below rules it will help you
Consumption Formula for Woven Shirt:
Some Measurements of any shirt-
Collar- 16"
Chest - 48"
CBL - 31"
HPS - 32.5"
Across Back - 21"
SL - 35"
Arm Hole - 21"
Yoke Height - 5"
Cuff - 9"
Cut able Fabric Width - 44"
Fabric Required for Body Portion-
Length = 32.5" + 5"(yoke) + 3.5" (Al) = 41"
Width = 48"+ 5" (Al) = 53"
= (Length x Width x 12)/(Fabric Width x Unit)
= (42" x 53" x 12) / (44" x 36")
=17.25 yards/dz
Fabric Required for Sleeve Portion-
Length = 24" + 3"(Al) = 27" (Sleeve length will be deduct from from half across back length
because here sleeve length have been given from HPS)
Width = 21"+ 1" (Al) = 22"
= (Length x Width x 12)/(Fabric Width x Unit)
= (27" x 22" x 12 x 2 ) / (44" x 36")
=9.42 yards/dz
Total Fabric Requirement = (17.25 + 9.42) yards/dz = 26.75 yards/dz
If fabric wastage percent is 5%
The total fabric requirement = 26.75 + 1.3 = 28.05 yards/dz
66.3. Consumption Formula for Woven Pant:
Some Measurement
Waist - 35"
Outseam - 42"
Inseam - 3o"
Thigh - 26"
Hip - 44"
Bottom Opening - 18"
Fabric cut able width - 56"
Length = 42" + 2"(Waist Band Height) + 3"(Al) = 45"
(I have considered out seam for length but you can consider inseam along with backrise length
and waistband length for total length)
Width = 26"+ 3" (Al) = 29" (In case of 1/2 thigh circular the formula will be multiplied by 4)
Fabric required for making one dz pant
= (Length x Width x 12)/(Fabric Width x Unit)
= (45" x 29" x 12) / (56" x 36")
=15.88 yards/dz
= consider as 16 yards/dz
Considering 5% wastage
= 16+0.8 yards/dz
=16.8 yards/dz
66.4. Consumption Calculation for Woven Basic Pant:
Woven Basic Pant Consumption Calculation is widely used in apparel industry and specially
in apparel merchandising. It is important tusk for merchandiser. If calculation is not correct
then company will face to huge loss and reputation also fall. This article will be helpful for
beginners who are involved in apparel sector.
Basic pant structure
Here,
Fabric width =59″
½ waist circular =46cm + 8 (Seam allowance) = 54cm
Front rise = 28cm (Including waist belt) + 8 (Seam allowance) = 36cm
½ Thigh circular = 36cm + 6 (Seam allowance) = 42cm
Inseam length = 821cm + 3 (Seam allowance) = 85cm
Consumption Formula:
Consumption = (54 × 36) × 2 + (42 × 85) × 4 ÷ 36 ÷ 59 + 5%
= 3888 + 14280 ÷ 6.45 ÷ 36 ÷ 59 + 5%
= 1.33 + 0.05
= 1.38 yds / pcs
Per dz = 1.38× 12
= 15.84 /dz (ypd) + 5%(wastage)
= (15.84 × 5/ 100) + 15.84
= 0.792 + 15.84
= 16.63 yds
If the price for the fabric is $0.95 per yds. The cost for the garment will be
Cost per dozen (Fabric) = .95 x 16.63
= $ 15.80
Accessories: cost /dz = US $ 6.00 (1 piece all time $ .15)
CM /dz = US $ 10.00
..........................................................................
Subtotal = US $ 31.80
Transport cost from factory to sea or airport (.5%) = US $ 0.20
Clearing and forwarding cost (2%) = US $ 0.90
Overhead cost (.5%) = US$ 0.20
Net cost price = US$ 33.10
Profit (10%) = US $ 4.2
.....................................................................................................
Net FOB price = US$ 37.30
Freight (4%) = US$ 2.00
Net C & F price = US$ 39.30
Insurance (1%) = US$ 0.48
....................................................................................................
Net CIF price = US $ 49.12
67. Some importance trams of Merchandising:
What is order Sheet?
According to Design & style the description of production. Packing and shipment details given
from the buyer is called order sheet.
What is the size space?
According to design & style the measurement chart of different size and process. Given from the
buyer is called size space.
What is the size specification?
According to size specification the measuring procedure of the garment is called size
specification.
What is the shrinkage?
Dimensional stability of the fabric after washing and ironing is called shrinkage.
What is the shedding?
Different collar shade between one part to another part in a garment is called shedding.
What is seam?
When two or more piece of fabric join together by needle and thread the join is called seam.
What is the neck size?
Distance from collar band to button hole edge is called neck size.
Neck measurement
SMLXLXXL
14”-14.5” 15”-15.5” 16”-16.5” 17”-17.5” 18”-18.5”
37-38cm 39-40cm 42-42cm 43-44cm 45-46cm
Types of collar?
1. Ken collar.
2. Button down collar.
3. Sport open collar.
4. Round collar.
5. Loop collar.
6. Men daring collar.
Faults of Apparel Industry?
1. Puckering.
2. Floating / False stitch.
3. Slip out.
4. Brocken.
5. Weave.
6. Oil mark.
7. Uneven dyeing.
8. Fabric hole.
9. Slab.
10. Needle mark.
11. Shedding.
12. Size mistake.
13. Shrinkage.
14. Shinning mark
Types of Folder?
1. Stand up folding.
2. Semi Stand up Folding.
3. Flat folding.
4. Hunger folding.
Types of sewing machine?
1. Single needle lock stitch M/C
2. Double needle lock stitch M/C
3. Single needle chain stitch M/C
4. Double needle chain stitch M/C
5. Kansai special m/C
6. Over lock M/C
7. Feed of the arm M/C
8. Flat lock M/C
9. Bar take M/C
10. Saddle stitch M/C
11. Bottom hole M/C
Write about shedding process apply in apparel industry?
1. Lot-wisecutting .
2. Roll-wise bundling.
3. Numbering.
SPI:
Stitch per inch 8-18 , normal 10-11.
HPS:
High point of shoulder .
CBN:
Center back neck.
Body length Measurement:
HPS to bottom or hip.
Sleeve Measurement:
CBN to Cuff ends /Armhole top to cuff ends.
Chest Measurement:
Armhole bottom to 1” down.
Waist measurement:
Middle of chest to bottom.
Armhole Measurement:
Armhole top to armhole bottom.
What is stitch:
Distance from one lock to another lock that is called stitch.
How much the tie gap: Tie gap is 0-1/4”
Measurement of Rolling :
For ½” Rolling seam allowance is ¾”
For 1” rolling Seam allowance is 1¼”
Where is used 4 needle kansai special machine ?
It is used in top center.
Where is used 5 threads over lock Machine?
It is used for woven industry (shirt , sleeve join)
Where is used 4 threads over lock Machine?
It is used for knit garments.
Where is used Flat lock M/C?
It is used for bottom hemming and sleeve hemming.
Where is used bar take machine?
It‟s used for back pocket.
Types of pocket:
1. Plain pocket.
2. Square pocket.
3. Round pocket.
4. Hexagon pocket.
Types of cuff:
1. Square cuff.
2. Round cuff.
3. Notched cuff.
4. Pointed cuff.
Types of bottom:
1. Straight bottom.
2. Semi Tailed bottom.
3. Tailed bottom.
Where is upper front in a shirt?
1. Left side for men.
2. Right side for female.
What is layout ?
According to design and style the requirement and arrangement of a machine and operator to set-
up a production line with a target of hourly and daily production is called layout.
What is care label?
Which label mention washing Ironing instruction is called care label.
What is main label?
Which label mentioned the brand name logo that is called main label?
Where is join the main label in a shirt?
It is join center of the inside yoke.
How many label are found in a shirt ?
1. Main label.
2. Size label.
3. Care label.
4. Composition label.
5. Flag label.
Where is attached the care label?
Care label attached in left side seam and 10 cm up from bottom.
What is in lay?
Distance of sewing line from the fabric edge is called inlay/seam allowance.
What is un-even dyeing?
Difference color shade between one to another part is called un- even dyeing.
Shedding fault is operator fault.
Shrinkage fault is textile fault.
What is the measurement placket box: Ans.¾ inch
Rolling used in shirt
Folding used in polo shirt.
What is rolling? Ans:fabric edge is invisible.
What is folding? Ans: fabric edge is visible.
SSS= Side seam sewing.
Types of industrial sewing machine :
1. Single needle lock stitch M/C used for multi-purpose of making garments
2. double needle lock stitch M/C It is used for buyer requirement when S/L M/C it is not
possible for making garments then it is used
3. Single needle chain stitch M/Cit is used for, where seam line is more extension. Exam:
neck of t-shirt
4. Double needle chain stitch M/C It is used for buyer requirement when Single needle
chain stitch machine it is not possible for making garments then it is used.
5. Kansai special M/C make top center on upper front of a shirt& waist band of pants
6. Over lock 3 thread machine: it is used for woven industry for frying
7. Over lock 4thread machine: it is used for knit production
8. Over lock 5 thread machine: it is used for woven production such as side seam of
shirt, sleeve join etc.
9. Feed of the arm M/C: it is used for out seam join of pants.
10. Flat lock M/C it is used for knit production such as bottom hemming, sleeve hemming
etc.
11. Bar take M/C Where seam open possibility is more than it is used .such as loop of pants,
crossing of pants
12. Saddle stitch M/C where one stitch is visible& another stitch is invisible
13. Button hole stitch M/C
14. Button stitch M/C
Where is the upper front in a shirt?
Left side for male
Right side for female
lower front=right(for men)
lower front=left(for women)
What is main label?
Which label mentioned the brand name and logo that is called main label.
Where is joining the main label in a shirt?
The center of inside yoke
How many labels are found in a shirt?
Main label
Size label
Care label
Composition label
Flag label
What is care label?
Which label mentioned the care instruction after washing and ironing that is called care
label.
Where is attached the care label?
Care label attached in left side seam & 10cm up from bottom.
What is inlay?
Distance of sewing line from the fabric edge is called inlay or seam allowance.
Body length measurement is where to where?
High point shoulder (H.P.S) to bottom.
Center back neck(C.B.N) to bottom
How get the chest measurement?
From armhole bottom to 1 inch down width wise measurement is called chest
measurement.
What do you mean by C.B.N?
C.B.N means Center back neck
What do you mean by H.P.S?
H.P.S means High point of shoulder
What is the seam?
When two or more piece of fabric joins together by needle and thread the joining line is
called seam.
What is stitch?
Distance from one lock to another lock is called stitch.
What is the neck size?
Distance form collar band button to button whole edge is called neck size. Measuring of
shirt will be depend on neck size
What is sleeve length procedure?
Armhole top to cuff end
C. B.N to cuff end
What is the shrinkage?
Dimensional stability of fabric after washing and ironing is called shrinkage.
What is the shedding?
Different color shade between one part to another part in a garment is called shedding.
What is un-even dyeing?
Different color shade between one part to another part in a fabric is called un-even
dyeing.
What is shading fault?
Shading fault is operating fault.
What is shrinkage fault?
Shrinkage fault is textile fault.
What is the measurement of placket box?
Placket box measurement is ¾ inch.
Where is use the rolling?
Ruling is used in shirt. not see fabric edge
Where is use the folding?
Folding is used in Polo shirt.
Where is use the flat lock machine?
For Hemming in polo shirt
What is folder?
Folder is one kind of attachment which is used for improving productivity & quality
What is the measurement of ruling?
For ½ inch rolling seam allowance is ¾.
For 1 inch rolling seam allowance is 1 ¼.
What is S.P.I?
S.P.I means Stitch per inch.
What is normal S.P.I?
Normal S.P.I is 10-11.
What is lay out?
According to design and style distribution of machine and operator to set up a production
line with a target of hourly and daily production is called lay out.
Note: A industry produce 120 pcs garment in one hours, so daily production (10 hours)
1200 pcs.
Where is use 4 needle kansai special machine?
It is used in top center
Where is use bar take machine?
It is use for back pocket. (Where seam can be open)
How is the tolerance for neck measurement?
The tolerance for neck measurement is “0”
What is the way of measuring body length
There are two way measuring body lengths. C.B.N to Bottom & H.P.S to Bottom
What is the way of measuring Arm hole
There are two way measuring arm hole. Straight & curved
What is the way of pocket placement
there are two way of pocket placement. H.P.S to pocket &from button to pocket
Arm hole top to arm hole bottom=arm hole
Side seam: Sewing line from cuff to bottom is called side seam. Two types of side seam-
1) Left side seam 2) Right side se
Faults of apparel:
Puckering, Floating, Slip out, Broken stitch, Weavy, oil mark, uneven dyeing, Fabric
hole, Slub, Needle mark, shedding, Shrinkage, size mistake, shinning mark, Spot /dirty.
Floating or false stitch: it is sewing fault. Where stitch are not properly locked
Slip out: when stitch are slip out from stitch line that is called slip out
Sewing is invisible
Stitch is visible
pleat is visible
Dart is invisible
Normal S.P.I=10-11
Minimum S.P.I=8
Maximum S.P.I=18
1 yards=36"
1 meter=39.37"
1 inch=2.54 cm
1 meter=100cm
Development Sample: Which sample make by available fabric & accessories and send to buyer
to collect order from the buyer that is called development sample.
Fit sample: Medium or large size have to send buyer for checking fits of dummy that is called fit
sample
Pre-production sample (PP Sample): which sample make by actual fabric & accessories and
send to buyer for final approval to start production.
Lab test: Which sample make by actual fabric & accessories and send to local labotory (Buyer
Nominated) to check fabric structure such as-GSM, Color fastness, Rubbing, Shrinkage,
printing,& embroidery.
Size set sample: send to local buying house all size sample made by according to order, style &
color& get them approved from buying house
Counter sample: To reserved with pattern for future order from buyer that is called counter
sample
Production sample: First production garment will be send buyer for buyer satisfaction.
Shipment sample: according to the buyer requirement like accessories, ploy bag, tag etc is been
made and kept ready to ship the before dispatched.
Infant size:3,6,12,18,24, Month
Boys & girls size: 2,3,4,5,6,6xyrs
Big boys & big girls:7/8,9/10,11/12,13/,14,15,16,17/18 yrs
Interlining: For perfect shape & good presentation of product that is called interlining. It is use
in inside.
Uses: Collar, cuff, collar band etc, Pocket flap, Top center, Waist band of skirt etc.
Lining: It is used for more warmer & comfortable of the dress.
Uses: Inside of jacket, skirt & pocket of pants etc
What is Fabric Consumption?
According to size spec & ratio the requirement of fabric for one dozen garment is called fabric
consumption.
DTM- Dye to Match
Lab-Dip Approval: After confirmation the orders from the buyer the process of color shade
approval from the buyer that is called Lab-Dip Approval.
Trim Card Approval: All the fabric & accessories approval process from the buying house that
is called Trim card approval.
Production start will be depend on: Size set sample & Trim Card Approval
Process of avoid shedding:
Lot wise cutting
Roll wise cutting
Numbering
Method of Assortment:
Assort color assort size
Solid color assort size
Solid color solid size
Assort color solid size
Different Section of an apparel industry
Pattern Design & sample Section
Cutting Section
Sewing Section
Finishing Section
Packing Section
Quality Control Section
Store Section
Maintanace Section
Compliance Section
Personal Section
Management of Sample Room
Sample Room manager.
Assistant manager.
Pattern Master.
Marker man.
Quality Controller
Sample Man
Classes Of Stitch
Class-100-Single thread chain stitch
Class-200-Hand stitch
Class-300-Lock stitch
Class-400-Multi chain stitch
Class-500-Over edge stitch
Class-600-Flat stitch
Class-700-Saddle stitch
Class-800-Button hole stitch
Class-900-Button stitch
Fashion specialization by country:-
1. Silk garments = china
2. Silk printing = Italy
3. Fine cotton yearn = united state
4. Swimwear =Israel
5. Tailoring = Eastern Europe
6. Summer cloth = India
7. Finishing process = Switzerland \
Sweater gauge: Sweater gauge indicates the coarseness or fineness of sweater. In case of cut &
sew knitwear the coarseness or fineness of fabric indicate by “GSM”. But it is difficult to
measure thickness or thinness by GSM in case of sweater.
Machine Gauge: machine gauge refer to the amount of the needle per inch of a machine . in
case of warp knitting machine the number of needle per two inch is called machine gauge for
warp knitting machine.
Available gauge of sweater machine :
1. 1.5 GG
2. 3
3. 5
4. 7
5. 10
6. 12
7. 14
8. 16
Styling of sweater : there are three ways to develop the outlook design of a sweater
1. According to body (Body style )
2. According to neck (Neck style )
3. According to Sleeve ( Sleeve Style )
According to body (Body style ):
Straight bottom
Fitted bottom: 1) less rib width for men‟s item. 2). Large rib width for women‟s item
Zipper through cardigan (men‟s and women‟s )
Button through cardigan (Special for women‟s )
Pull over (no button and zipper )
Hood pull over
Sleeveless
Note: collar , cuff , bottom will be 2*2 rib
According to neck (Neck style):
Crew neck :bigger upper shape ,for women
Ballet neck: smaller upper shape
Muck turtle neck : V-shape
Shawl neck
High neck
According to Sleeve (Sleeve Style):
set in sleeve
straight sleeve
raglan shoulder
saddle shoulder
classic shoulder
stitches & design used in fully fashion knitwear :
Basic stitches
Cardigan stitches
Fancy stitches
Fancy stitches :
Cable stitch
Pointelle
Moss stitch
Tuck stitch
Milano stitch
Diamond stitch
Honey comb stitch
Ladder stitch
Available yarn in the market to mixing and blending of the fiber:
100% cotton
100% polyester
100% Nylon
100% Viscose Rayon
100% wool
100% Acrylic
65 % viscose and 35% cotton blended yarn
65% cotton and 35% polyester blended yarn
70% wool 30% acrylic blended yarn
70% wool 30% nylon blended yarn
Silver yarn
Golden yarn
Consumption of sweater : let the weight of a sample 250 gram.
Yarn consumption per dozen in pounds
=250*12 gram/dozen
=3000 gram/dozen =(3000/453.6)lbs /dozen =6.61 lbs/dozen
Calculate of CBM :
Containers are three types:
1. 20 ft container =30 CBM
2. 40 ft container =60 CBM
3. 40 ft container =65 CBM
Carton measurement (CTN) =
Length * width * height (cm)*CTNS
=.80*.70*.45*CTNs= .252 CBM
Total CTN CBM =2334*.252=336.17 CBM
CBM=cubic meters
Final checking point of the sample before send to the buyer :
1. No fabric defect in the sample
2. No any sewing fault on the sample
3. No shedding
4. All the measure with in tolerance
5. All part of the sample fabric direction are the same ways
6. No shining mark
7. All label placement is ok
8. Correct accessories use of the folding
9. Neck shape used for folding
10. Tie gap collar spread measurement is ok
11. Poly bag should be clean and nice
12. Presentation should be nice
Garments wash : to remove all types of germ, durst, fixation, of color, measurement, and print,
embroidery and for softness of the garments.
Method of garments wash :
1. Normal wash
2. Pigment wash
3. Bleach wash
4. Store wash
5. Acid wash
6. Enzyme wash
7. Over edge wash
8. Whiting wash
9. Vat wash
Trims: the raw materials used in sewing room other than fabric is called trims.
Or, which materials are directly attached with fabric to make a garment is called trims.
The name of 15 trims:
1. Threads
2. Button
3. Lining
4. Interlining
5. Zipper
6. Labels
7. Elastic
8. Twill tape
9. Stopper
10. Logo print
11. Collar stay
12. Weaving belt
13. Velcro tape
14. Cable
15. Adjuster
Accessories: the material which are used to make a garment attractive for sale and packing other
than the trims are called accessories.
The name of 15 accessories:
1. Poly bag
2. Hang tag
3. Pin tag
4. Carton
5. Butterfly
6. Collar stand
7. Elastic bag
8. Safety pin
9. Gum tap
10. Size sticker
11. PP band
12. Back board
13. Defect indicator
14. Tissue paper
15. Hunger
68. Quality Management System
68.1. Quality Assurance is process development approach to minimize alters & defects during
the production.
68.2. Quality Control Identify the defect after production is completed.
32.3. Quality Mission Statement:-
An independent Quality Assurance team under the direct control /supervision of General
Manager is deputed to ensure the Product Quality as per Buyers‟ standard.
Apparel quality policy adheres to a 4 point fabric quality standard, 1.5 AQL in line and UN
finished products and 2.5 AQL for all offline, pre-final and final audits.
Quality Goal is to deliver garments of high standard needle work and of outstanding quality and
value.
68.3. Objectives:-
To develop and implement a continuous program to improve our standards, our quality and
execution in the factory site.
1) It is necessary to understand the SOP program is very proactive in the development and
manufacturing of our products.
2) Factory has a Quality assurance manager to assist production lines in solving Technical issues.
All QC are highly qualified and experienced to help factories make the best quality product.
3) Factory has a mandatory training program conducted for each QI who will be authorized to do
all internal inspections for the factory. The QA who passes the entire required test will get a
authorization to conduct audits in the factory for the shipping goods. The factory QA will be
responsible to make sure all the reports made by the factory are analyzed and corrective actions
is taken to fix issues at the earliest. He will also be responsible to make sure the factory follows
the SOP correctly.
1) A Buyer approved sample of the pre-production submits will be kept at the Factory site.
2) After the Pre-Production is approved the counter sample will be tagged as the Red Tag
Sample.
3) QC will use this sample to verify bulk production.
69. Factory Standard Inspection Packet (SIP):
Factory doing orders for any customers will have to maintain a SIP file for Buyers‟ review at the
Factory. Factory will have to make sure that all tests are timely done and approved
The Factory will maintain the file with all product related info.
1. PID/PO or Spec sheets and any changes to order.
2. MTL Fabric Testing Reports.
3. MTL Pre Prod Sample Testing Reports.
4. MTL TOP Sample Testing Reports.
5. Interlining Testing reports.
6. Invoices of all Trims / Fabric that have been ordered from the nominated suppliers.
7. Factory Pre Final/Final inspection reports.
8. Buyers‟ Final inspection reports.
9. Approved fabric swatches and Trim samples
10. Fit and Pre production approval comments
11. Pre-production Meeting Report etc.
70. ISO 9000 - Quality management:
The ISO 9000 family addresses various aspects of quality management and contains some of
ISO‟s best known standards. The standards provide guidance and tools for companies and
organizations who want to ensure that their products and services consistently meet customer‟s
requirements, and that quality is consistently improved.
There are many standards in the ISO 9000 family, including:
ISO 9001:2008 - sets out the requirements of a quality management system
ISO 9000:2005 - covers the basic concepts and language
ISO 9004:2009 - focuses on how to make a quality management system more efficient
and effective
ISO 19011:2011 - sets out guidance on internal and external audits of quality
management systems.
ISO 9001:2008
ISO 9001:2008 sets out the criteria for a quality management system and is the only standard in
the family that can be certified to (although this is not a requirement). It can be used by any
organization, large or small, regardless of its field of activity. In fact ISO 9001:2008 is
implemented by over one million companies and organizations in over 170 countries.
71. Quality Management Principles:
The standard is based on a number of quality management principles including a strong customer
focus, the motivation and implication of top management, the process approach and continual
improvement. These principles are explained in more detail in the pdf Quality Management
Principles. Using ISO 9001:2008 helps ensure that customers get consistent, good quality
products and services, which in turn brings many business benefits.
Principle 1 – Customer focus
Principle 2 – Leadership
Principle 3 – Involvement of people
Principle 4 – Process approach
Principle 5 – System approach to management
Principle 6 – Continual improvement
Principle 7 – Factual approach to decision making
Principle 8 – Mutually beneficial supplier relationships
72. Pre- Production System’s:
73. All the above stages mentioned in the Pre-production Flow chart have been explained in
detailed below ---
Fabric Inspection:-
1) Factory will have to make sure that 10 % of all fabric shipments are inspected prior to cutting
2) A file will have to be maintained with records of every fabric invoice packing list and
inspection report.
Pre-Production Meeting
Conducted 1 week prior to
production
Factory Fabric Quality
Auditor
Fabric Inspection
10 % rolls of every
shipment. (4 point system)
Factory Production Team
& QC
Shade Bands 10% rolls of every dye lot
shipped for piece dyed
goods and 100% rolls of
every dye lot shipped for
Denims
Factory Fabric Quality
Auditor
Shrinkage Reports
10 to 100% rolls of every
dye lot shipped
caofshipment.
Factory Fabric Quality
Auditor
Pre-Production Size Set Samples made in all sizes
and colors prior to cutting
Factory QA Manager Test Run
Minimum 300 pieces /
color
Factory QA Manager
3) Fabric inspections will be done by using the 4 point system and on the Rotary fabric
inspection m/c. Fabric inspection done while spreading is not accepted.
4) Fabric will be inspected for color accuracy as well as shading (side to side, end to end, roll to
roll and number of shade lots). All rolls that are out of the color shading guidelines will be
rejected. All roles with color defects such as side-to-side shading, side-center-side shading, and
end-to-end shading will not be given points, but will be rejected.
5) All fabric inspection forms that factory will make should have the defects classified
separately. E.g.:- Stains, Weaving defects, Holes, slub
38. The Four Point system classifies defects as shown in Table1:
Table 1: Four Point System.
Size of defect Penalty
3 Inches or Less 1 Point
Over 3, But not over 6 Inches 2 Points
Over 6, But not over 9 Inches 3 Points
Over 9 Inches 4 points
Note - A Maximum of four points can be charged to any one linear yard.
The length of defect is used to determine the penalty points. Only major defects are
considered.(A major defect is any defect that, if found in a finished garment, would classify
that garment as a second.) No penalty points are recorded or assigned for minor defects.
Major Defect s for woven fabrics is classified as follows:-
Slubs, Hole, Missing Yarn, Conspicuous Yarn, Variation, End Cut, Soiled Yarn, Wrong Yarn.
Major Defects for Knit fabrics are classified as follows:-
Mixed yarn, Yarn Variation, Runner, Needle line, Barre, Slub, Hole, Press off
39. The inspection procedure listed below details the steps involved in performing the piece
goods inspection in the correct manner.
1) Review the packing list and determine how much total fabric to inspect and then how much of
each color. Determine how many rolls of each color to inspect and then choose from the packing
list and the physical rolls, which rolls are to be inspected.
2) Count the rolls in the shipment to make sure they match the packing list and then mark the
rolls that are to be pulled for inspection.
3) Check the packing of the rolls in the shipment to make sure all the packing and markings are
correct.
4) Move all the rolls to be inspected to the inspection machine and load the first roll on the
machine. As the roll is put on the machine check to make sure the inner packing is correct and
proper. Also check to make sure the roll is rolled on the tube squarely and that the tube does not
stick out of the end of the roll more then 1 inch on each end. Also make sure the first 3 meters of
fabric is rolled properly, not creased or distorted, and that it is clean from dirt and marks.
5) Cut off the first 6 inches and last 6 inches of fabric from each roll and mark it with the roll
number, whether it is from the head or tail of the roll, which is the right and left side of the fabric
and which side is the face side of the fabric. These strips will then be used in the light box for
reviewing end-to-end, side-to-side and roll-to-roll shading. Use the head strip to check for end-
to-center shading during the inspection.
6) Inspect the fabric using the recommended form that is included in the manual and mark the
faults and their points. Run the inspection machine at a speed that allows you to see the defects
properly, yet keeps the fabric moving in a steady and smooth manor. Make sure that you have
the proper and adequate light at the machine shining on the face of the fabric.
7) Check the length of the fabric on the roll and compare it to the ticket yardage for the roll. Note
this on the “Inspection Form.”
8) Check the width of the fabric at the beginning and end of the fabric as well as at least once in
the middle of the roll. Mark this on the “Inspection Form.‟
9) Check for skewing, bias, and bowing, compare this to the standards and note findings on
“Inspection Form”.
10) When inspection is completed do calculations on the „Inspection Form” to determine the
point count for each roll and whether or not it passes or is a “second roll.” Make sure all „second
rolls” are separated.
11) Calculate the percentage of the average point count for the shipment per square yard. This
will determine if the shipment passes or fails
.
Calculate the acceptable level
Acceptance Criteria;
Example –
Total yards inspected: 700 yards
Width of the fabric: 1.6 yards
Total points found; 300 points
i.e. 700 X 1.6 = 1120 Square yards
300 x 100 / 1120 sq yards = 26.78 points
Result : Pass
Shade Band:-
A shade band is made from bulk fabrics to find out the variation in shades that have been
received against the original approved color.
Shade band approvals will avoid shipping of off shaded garments.
Shade band approvals have to be taken before the start of bulk cutting.
How to make a shade band?
Shade band has to be made only after the final wash is approved. In case of a garment washed
programs.
1. 10 % rolls will have to be selected from every dye lot that is received. In case of Denims
100% rolls will have to be checked for shading.
2. 4x4 square fabric pieces will be cut from the rolls and it will be joined together like a blanket.
Blankets will be made for every dye lots.
3. All the blankets made out of all the dye lots received will have to be washed together as per
the approved wash standard.
4. Ever blanket will be checked separately for shade variations with in lots. Sub lots will be then
made as per the variations received.
E.g. – dye lot A will have A1, A2 and Dye lot B will have just B and dye lot C will have C1, C2,
and C3.
5. Pick Two Rolls from all the sub lots and lots and make leg panels to make the final shade
band.
6. All leg panels have to be then washed together as per the approved wash standard.
Responsibility:
Factory QA manager will verify all shades that are packed with the shade band sample while
doing audits. Shipment will not be released if factory packs a non-approved shade.
Factory – Will have to see that only shades that are taken approval for are shipped
Shrinkage Reports:-
For all garment washed programs factory will have to see that shrinkage is checked for a min of
10% rolls per color for every shipment.
Shrinkage control varies for different fabrics – Techniques to control the same also varies
based on the nature of the fabrics. The only way one can be sure of the technique and patterns is
by making a test run before starting bulk.
Test run is the most important check point to verify if the technique and patterns are all correct.
Sometimes factories will find a difference in shrinkage from roll to roll, this mostly occurs in
stretch fabrics and hence stretch fabrics have to be handled very carefully.
If the noticed shrinkage variation is more than the garment tolerance then It is recommended that
100% rolls get checked for shrinkage and factory makes groups and different patterns for
different groups.
It is always recommended to make an average pattern by considering only ½ the tolerance give
to the spec. for example if the hip tolerance is 1” you should only consider ½” while making
patterns for different shrinkages . Factory will have to study the tolerances given in the spec for
Bottoms and tops and decide accordingly on the different patterns required
Factory will have to maintain a file on shrinkage reports and will have to provide the same to the
buyer while doing the test run check. All shrinkage tests need to be done on a minimum 50cm x
50cm square marking – factories have to make a square marking template .
Factory will also have to mention the wash recipe and time used to dry the garment in the
shrinkage report file. The wash recipe and time that is once set; can not be changed for the full
program.
40. Pre-Production Size set:-
Objective:-
- To check if the shrinkage allowance that is added to the pattern is good enough to start
the test run.
- Size sets have to be made for all colors and for all different shrinkage groups.
- The Pre-production pattern has to be used as a base and if the shrinkage of the bulk fabric
matches with the shrinkage of the pattern used for the pp sample then the same pattern
has to be graded and used for bulk.
- Any adjustments required making different patterns for different colors and shrinkage
groups have to be made to the base pattern.
- To check on all the stitching details and techniques that factory is planning to use in bulk.
Responsibility:-Factory,
- The factory Quality manager and Quality Auditor will have to check the size set and
make a spec report of before wash and after wash to verify that the shrinkage
allowances that were added in the pattern is ok or needs to be adjusted.
- The before wash spec evaluation of the size set has to match with the before wash spec
with zero tolerance. If the Before wash spec dose not match the inspector will have to
analyze and see if the error is in the pattern or if the operators took wrong seam
allowances while making the sample . Factory will have to remake samples if before
wash spec doesn‟t match.
- The Factory Quality manager will then write all the comments on one of the sample and
make it a production reference sample which will be hung on the production floor.
- The factory Quality manager and Quality auditor will have to make sure that all
patterns and templates are signed by the pattern master.
- Shrinkage % has to be mentioned on all patterns for review.
41. Pre-Production Meeting:-
Location – Conducted at the Factory, 1 week prior to the production start date.
Required Attendees –
1. Factory Production Manager or assistant manager/PO/FIC.
2. QC responsible for that particular style.
3. Factory Quality Manager.
4. Factory Quality Auditor
5. Factory Production Supervisor responsible for that styles
6. Factory Pattern/Cutting Master.
7. Line supervisors
8. Concern Merchandisers.
Objectives—
1. Review PID(Spec) package and all information pertaining the program.
2. Review on the machine and folder requirement and to see that factory is fully equipped to
handle style.
3. Review on the Time and action plan to perform the order timely.
4. Plan all shipment and FRI inspection dates.
5. Review the pre-production sample ( Red tag sample ) with the factory production sample.
Factory Production sample – This is a sample made by the Factory for internal approval
on bulk styling and needs to have all the critical points written on the sample for in line
review during production. This sample has to be signed by the factory QA manager and
needs to be hung in the production floor all the time.
6. Ensure all approvals are in place.
7. Factory will have to make a additional spec for all the measurements that are not
mentioned in the PID.
8. Factory will have to make a before wash spec for in line Quality inspectors to measure
and see that garments that come off line are as per required. This will also be a check
point to see if operators in line are following proper seam allowances.
9. Review all the marking templates and techniques.
10. Factory advise on methods of construction, tolerances, production lay out and techniques
as applicable to the product.
11. Verification of all product test reports. MTL fabric, MTL Pre Production.
12. Verification of all care instruction approvals
13. Review of the Floor ready spec.
14. Review all Fit and Pre production comments – so that all points are clearly understood
and taken care off.
15. Check the spec of any garment based on the how to measure manual to make sure that the
factory uses the correct measuring method.
42. Production Test Run:-
Objective:-
- The test run is the most important check point in the full production process. This
verifies that the techniques the patterns the machinery the systems are all ok to go for
Bulk. It gives u a green signal to start.
- The test run is a replica of bulk so every think that you do should be exactly as you
have planned for bulk.
- The test run will also give factory the final before wash spec that will be used by all
quality auditors.
43. How to conduct a test run?
- Factory has to plan a cut of minimum 30 layers. It is very important that factory takes
every layer from different rolls.
- The numbering has to be done from 1 to 30, Numbers have to be written or labeled on
the garment so that it can be identified after wash. This will help in checking the
shrinkage variations.
- The cutting marker that factory will use for the test run has to be exactly the same as
what they will use in bulk production.
- Garments have to be then produced in line using the same techniques as bulk.
- 4 size sets will be then measured for before wash and the same garments will be then
checked after wash. Garments have to be numbered with a water proof pen so as to
check them against their respective before wash measurements.
- The size sets have to be specked after wash and after pressing.
- Comments have to be made on the needle work and the stitching techniques.
- Garments will have to be then ironed and packed the same way as bulk requirements.
44. Factory QC responsibility:
- To check and verify the factory spec evaluation reports.
- To verify the bulk patterns with the PP sample pattern.
- To make sure the shrinkage % is mentioned on the bulk pattern
- To do an audit on the Test run packed pieces.
- To check if all the required corrections are done before the factory starts bulk
production.
- To check the spec on 4 size sets before and after wash.
- To check the spec on the size sets after pressing.
- To finalize the before wash spec.
- To approve the final pattern for bulk by adding the correct shrinkage.
- To make sure that all the issues noticed during production are taken care of.
- To finalize the method or procedure to make the product.
45. Production System’s:
System Factory QC
Vender/Buying Qc
Final Inspection
Conducted when 80% –
100% is packed - audit
done only by the Factory
QA for every shipment
Cutting Quality systems
1. Part Check inspection
2. Table Check inspection
Conducted when 80 %–
100 % is packed for every
shipment
Pre final audits
1. Initial inline. 2. In line dupro
audits 15%- 35%- 55% – 75%
Inline during process
quality inspections
1. Operator wise Inspection
1. End Table check Defect tally
2. Off line dupro inspection + Before wash spec check
3. Factory QA dupro audits – 10% – 30% – 50% -70%-90%
Management Audits
1. Table checker defect
tally.
2. Table Spec check
3. Pre Final Audits + after
wash spec
4. Pre final audits – 5%-
40%-70%
Pre Final Audit – 50 %
complete.
Buying Qc inspection
Pre final audits – 10 %–
45%- 75 %
46. Cutting systems:
1. All lay/cuts must be inspected prior to cutting. The Table checking inspection form is to
be used. These are the following points that will be checked in this form
a) Marker Length, b) Marker Placement, c) Counts , d)Tension, e) Leaning, f) Ends,
g) Splice, h) Fabric Flaws. Total defects found and action taken towards the defects.
2. All cuts must be inspected prior to issue in the line. The Part checking inspection form to
be used. All cut parts (Top / Middle and Bottom) must be inspected from each layer and
recorded. This record includes the name of the component inspected. Variation found
(Actual compared with paper pattern) and the action taken towards the defects.
47. Sewing in process inspection reports:
1. In line Quality inspectors have to check every operator in the line at least twice a day
especially in the critical operations. The Quality inspectors have to pick a bundle that is
complete and pull out 7 pieces at random if they find 1 defect then the inspection fails.
The records have to include the operator name, Operation, Number of pieces inspected,
Number of defects found, DPCI number and Action taken towards defect.
48. Steps to be followed in case of a fail bundle inspection:
Step 1- All the pieces of the rejected bundles have to be checked for defects by the operator
and fixed before they proceed with the next bundle. At this stage the inspector will have to
Flag the machine with a red flag to identify the machine and operator for possible quality
problems The corrected bundle has to be then rechecked by the line supervisor to make sure
all is fixed and then the operator should proceed with the next bundle.
Step 2- The very next bundle of that operation will have to be then inspected and if passed
then the operator can proceed with the 3rd
bundle. If the bundle gets rejected then the
operator will have to re check all the pieces and alter all the defects. Then the corrected
bundle will have to be re inspected by the line supervisor to make sure all is fixed and the
operator can proceed with the next bundle.
Step 3- The third bundle will be then audited and if passed then the flag will be taken off and
the operator can proceed with the operation. If this bundle gets rejected then the operator will
be stopped of resuming production till it is re trained. The factory manager will have to be
notified and he will have to sign on the quality form related to that quality operator. The
factory manager will have to approve the return of the operator after the training is complete.
Note; The Factory manager and the production team has to analyses all above defects that
are found at the red flag areas it can be that the machinery and tools provided to the operator
are not good enough or the machines are not properly set . Necessary action has to be taken
to see that the operators have the correct machines and folders for that particular operation.
49. The above system acceptance level is based on AQL 1.5
Sewing output checker defect tally list . Form is very important that the managers analyze the
defects and makes sure that the total defects found per operation decrease as the days pass by.
The form has operation type, defect type, hourly tally , day‟s total, previous day‟s total, and
action taken.
Before wash spec on critical positions has to be checked on 100% garments with a template that
is fixed on the checking table. The defected garments have to be recorded on an hourly basis.
The production team has to analyses all defected garment for spec to see if operators take in the
proper seam allowance while stitching. Tolerance of not more than ¼”has to be given to spec
before wash garments.
All reports have to be signed and analyzed by the quality auditors, line supervisors and the
production manager. Defects that do not show any improvements and appear on a daily basis will
have to be checked 100 % in line in front of the sewing machines that produces that particular
operation.
Sewing output statistical audit. The audit must be done on the output from each sewing line as
per AQL 2.5 for workmanship and AQL 4 for Fit. The inspector must base the sampling plan
based on the days output per line. The form used will be same as the Dupro inspection form. All
defects will be identified by DPCI # and a defect trend will be analyzed with the factory
production team.
Before wash spec has to be checked every day and attached to every audit report. 4 pieces per
size is the minimum one should check. Factory will have to wash the pieces that were measured
and re check if they are ok to spec after wash and after ironing. Tolerance of not more than ¼”
has to be given to the before wash spec and only at some of the spec points. If the before wash
spec fails then the immediate conclusion has to be that the operators are either taking a wrong
seam allowance or cutting extra at the marrow stitch . Early detection of this problem will help in
solving spec issues.
Factory QA will have to do a similar audit when the factory has completed 10% – 30% – 50% –
70% – 90 % of production. The factory QA will pull pieces from all the lines at random. The
Factory QA will also use a form to do his inspections. The before wash spec that will be checked
during these audits has to cover all sizes and minimum of 4 pieces per size. The Factory QA will
have to get all pieces measured washed and re check for after wash spec before and after ironing.
All measurements in details have to be checked during this audit.
All defects will be identified by DPCI # and a defect trend will be analyzed with the factory
production team.
50. Procedure of inspecting garments while doing a dupro audit:
a) The Inspector has to first decide on the sample pull based on the factory daily output.
b) The pieces have to be pulled at random from all lines
c) The garments have to be pulled from the out put check passed bin.
d) AQL 2.5 Std has to be used to evaluate if goods pass or fail for workmanship and AQL 4
for Fit
e) Defects have to be identified by DPCI # and a defect trend will have to be made while
analyzing the report.
f) Defect classification codes will have to be used for specifying every defect.
g) Every defect in the garment will be recorded on the report but only one garment will be
counted for major and minor defect evaluation.
h) A Defect trend will be then made and analyzed with the factory production team .
i) The inspector has to see that after the audit is complete all defects that are found are
attended to in line so that the root cause of the problem is solved immediately.
j) The before wash spec has to be checked on 4 pieces per size – the garments have to
measure to the spec with a tolerance of ¼”in some areas if not the production team will
have to see that all operations are re checked just to see if the operators are taking excess
seam allowances. Excess seam allowances and cutting at the marrow seams will cause the
spec on the garments to differ from the before wash spec.
51. Finishing Quality Control
51.1. Packing Output statistical Audits:
1. The final checkers will have to maintain a defect tally list – Form for analyzing the
defects and to make sure the specific defects found on the finished product are controlled
and proper action is taken. The defects have to be totaled on a daily basis and proper
steps have to be taken by the factory managers to make sure that all issue are controlled
in the process.
2. Table spec check – Factory has to make a template and fix it on the table for checkers to
check the critical specs on 100% garments. Defected garments for spec have to be
recorded on a hourly basis.
3. Pre final audits have to be done on a daily basis using a form , goods that fail the audit
have to be rechecked the following day. All inspections have to be done based on AQL
2.5 for workmanship. The cartons that will be pulled by the inspectors have to be signed
and pulled at random to get a proper statistics on the goods. The Square root method will
be used to select the quantity of cartons that need to be pulled for every inspection. All
inspection reports should have a measurement spec report done based of AQL 4. The
factory has to see that a minimum of 4 pieces per size per color is taken for a spec audit.
4. Pre final audits have to be done by the Factory QA when 5%- 40%- 70% goods are
packed. The audit procedures have to be same like the daily pre final audits done by the
factory packing department QC. The cartons that will be pulled for inspection have to be
taken from the total cartons packed at that time. The QA report will have to be shown to
the buying QC when they come for their regular audits. If goods fail the audit then
factory will have to recheck and then offer for the Buyers‟ audit.
51.2 Pre-Final and Final Inspection
Procedure of inspecting garments while doing a pre final;
The procedure of doing a pre final is the same as that of what is mentioned in the FRI audit
process.
Kids Garments: 100% checking and passing through metal detectors to packing (metal free
zone).
51.3. Management Audit:
The management audit is done by the Technical manager (PD) or the assistant Technical
Manager. The audit will be done when 50 % goods are packed on every shipment. This audit will
be a Pre Final audit and will be checked based on AQL 2.5 for workmanship and AQL 4 for
Spec. Factory will have to make sure that they pass this audit as if failed it will raise concerns on
the factory caliber to handle quality products. Action will be taken accordingly.
51.4. Final Inspections:-
The final inspection will be done by the factory QA based on the Form . The audits will be done
only when 80% – 100 % cartons are packed. The Final inspection will be based on AQL 2.5 for
workmanship and AQL 4 for Spec. The no of cartons that will be pulled will be based on the
Square root system. The QA will have to check the spec on min 4 pieces per size. Goods that
failed the audits will have to be Re Checked before offering for the Buyers‟ Final inspection.
Addition to above for Practical Aspects and Exercises:
What is AQL and how to read the AQL chart or table for Quality Inspection?
In the apparel business, before accepting the finished goods from the manufacturer buyer do
inspection of goods. As whole lot of goods inspection is not viable, also not advisable, inspection
is done on sampling basis. In inspection how much percentage of defective pieces will be
accepted depends on acceptable quality level. In the following table a sampling plan is given for
final shipment inspection. The AQL level varies process to process, product to product and even
buyer to buyer.
Definition of AQL: The AQL (Acceptable Quality Level) is the maximum per cent defective that
for the purpose of sampling inspection can be considered satisfactory as a process average.
Table: Sampling plan for shipment inspection:
Lot or Batch
size
Sample
size Code
Letter
Sample
Size
Acceptable Quality level
2.5 4.0 6.5
Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re
2 – 8 A 2 0 1 0 1 0 1
9 – 15 B 3 0 1 0 1 0 1
15 – 25 C 5 0 1 0 1 0 1
26 – 50 D 8 0 1 1 2 1 2
51-90 E 13 1 2 1 2 2 3
91-150 F 20 1 2 2 3 3 4
151-180 G 32 2 3 3 4 5 6
251-500 H 50 3 4 5 6 7 8
501-1200 J 80 5 6 7 8 10 11
1201-3200 K 125 7 8 10 11 14 15
3201-10000 L 200 10 11 14 15 21 22
10001-35000 M 315 14 15 21 22 21 22
Source: ANSI/ASQ Z 1.4 The Sampling procedures and table for inspection by attributes
51.5. How to Read AQL table?
Lot or Batch size: This means total how many pieces inspector is going to check or inspect. (i.e.
if you have been offered a shipment of 600 pieces order quantity, the batch size of this shipment
will fall under 501 to 1200 pieces (Code-J)
Sample size Code letter: This code is indicative a range of batch size. (Code 'G' means your lot
size range is from 151 pieces to 280 pieces.
Sample size: It means that how many pieces will be picked up for inspection from the total
offered pieces (Batch).
Ac (Accepted): The number in this column denotes that if the inspector finds up to that much
defective pieces the shipment will be accepted by buyer.
Re (Rejected): On the other hand number in this column denotes that if the inspector finds that
much defective pieces or more than the listed number, the shipment will be rejected (or asked to
the manufacturer for 100% inspection and re-offer for final inspection) by buyer.
Example: Suppose you have been offered a shipment of 1000 pieces for inspection. Select the
range from table, it is 501-1200. Now from table you have to select number of sample you are
going to actually inspect. According the above table you will select 80 pieces out of 1000
pieces. Now assume that you are inspecting at 2.5 AQL. So, after inspecting all 80 pieces if you
find 5 or less than 5 defective pieces will accept the shipment. And if you find 6 or more than 6
defective pieces in 80 samples you will reject that shipment.
52. Conclusion
In conclusion I can say that is dissertation report is really essential for every students of AMMT
Dept. By completing this report I have already got overall idea about merchandising& quality
management of RMG sector and these may be helpful to know about the technical and
management knowledge of apparel industry also these sector related organizations. Apart from
the above mention procedures, merchandiser has to assign subordinates to help him in the order
execution, and direct the procedures. He has to revise his knowledge from time-to-time to know
current market trends. To record preferences for all the planned activities, use daily or time log
systems. The Merchandiser should find out exact reasons for time consumption. It is necessary to
keep record of time value and keeping it safe, as it is going to be shared with concerned
parties/buyers. It is certain that merchandising jobs need huge time planning.
53. Recommendation:
Bangladesh has progressed considerably in the export of readymade garments. Three fourths
of our export comes from in this sector. Though Bangladesh has gone very deep in terms of
quantity but it still now produce goods for the lower end of the market. The other aspect of
improving quality with motivated manpower It is essential to improve quality of
management, activities attitude. In this sense Divine Group of Industry Ltd. & Texkom
BD Ltd. is very careful about quality, manpower etc. Their management power is very
strong but sometimes there is a little bit problem is arisen during working because most of
their stuffs are new and comes from different subject without some quantity of related subject
Finally I recommend that when you will recruit please should consider about related subject
,because this persons will be highly efficient than others.
54. Reference:
Book: Introduction to garments technology & Management. (By Engr. A.J.S.M. Khaled )
Book: Quality Control and Compliance (By: Md. Elias Miah)
Class lecture of SMUCT About Merchandising
http://www.slideshare.net/belaluddin7311/function-amp-importance-of-merchandising-
in-apparel-industry
http://www.slideshare.net/belaluddin7311/management-and-technical-procedure-in-
apparel-industry-merchandising
http://textilecalculation.blogspot.com/
55. Appended:
At last I can say that merchandising & quality management is a cross-function approach
including managing the movement of raw materials into an organization, certain aspects of the
internal processing of materials into finished goods, and the movement of finished goods out of
the organization and toward the end-consumer. As organizations strive to focus on core
competencies and becoming more flexible, they reduce their ownership of raw materials sources
and distribution channels. These functions are increasingly being outsourced to other entities that
can perform the activities better or more cost effectively. The effect is to increase the number of
organizations involved in satisfying customer demand, while reducing management control of
daily logistics operations. Less control and more merchandising partners led to the creation of
merchandising management concepts. The purpose of merchandising management is to improve
trust and collaboration among merchandising partners, thus improving inventory visibility and
the velocity of inventory movement.
Thanks